This is an informational guide on how to change the oil on your 2008 700xx. You should consult your ATV repair manual for actual instructions as your quad may vary.


MAKE SURE YOU DO NOT OVERTORQUE THE FILTER COVER BOLTS...YOU WILL BREAK THEM.

You will need:

A large oil pan

A 1/4" drive ratchet

A 3/8" drive ratchet

A 6" 3/8" drive extension

A 8 mm socket

A 14 mm wrench

A 17 mm socket

For those of you who would like to play along at home please view Chapter 4-12.

The 1st thing that the manual tells you to do is 1st warm up the quad, normally I wouldn't do this but since I'm writing this guide and don't want to half-ass it...I did.

http://www.club700xx.com/howto_images/oil_change1.jpg

http://www.club700xx.com/howto_images/oil_change2.jpg

After warming it up a few minutes, turn it off and remove the main engine drain bolt with your 6" drive and 17 mm socket.

Left loosy, righty tighty.

http://www.club700xx.com/howto_images/oil_change3.jpg

Then go around the "passenger" front of the quad and loosen the bolt with your 14 mm wrench. (you could use a socket, I couldn't find mine)

http://www.club700xx.com/howto_images/oil_change4.jpg

Once you remove both bolts the oil should drain pretty easily. Make sure that you have washers for BOTH BOLTS.

http://www.club700xx.com/howto_images/oil_change5.jpg

As you can see one has fallen off and is in the pan of the 2nd picture.

http://www.club700xx.com/howto_images/oil_change6.jpg

Next the manual asks that you remove the filter cover. You will need your 1/4" ratchet and your 8mm socket.

http://www.club700xx.com/howto_images/oil_change7.jpg

Once you have it removed you should see the filter read "this side and spring towards engine" written on the filter. (if it's a Honda filter, others may not) As you can see I'm being anal once again and putting the bolts in the pattern for which they were removed from the quad. The background reason is that if for some reason a wacky engineer decided to put coarse threaded bolts next to fine threaded bolts..you get the idea.

http://www.club700xx.com/howto_images/oil_change8.jpg

I decided to wipe out the inside of this area just to see how dirty the oil was in there. Not too bad!

http://www.club700xx.com/howto_images/oil_change9.jpg

Now make sure you put the filter in correctly again, check this over and over again to be safe.

http://www.club700xx.com/howto_images/oil_change10.jpg

http://www.club700xx.com/howto_images/oil_change11.jpg



It all goes back in...finger tight 1st to make sure I haven't cross-threaded anything.

http://www.club700xx.com/howto_images/oil_change12.jpg

After tightening down the 8mm bolts it's time to put the other drain bolts in. I normally wipe the bolts down to be sure I'm not putting dirt inside the motor as part of this process.

http://www.club700xx.com/howto_images/oil_change13.jpg

Now romove the dipstick and put the oil in.

http://www.club700xx.com/howto_images/oil_change14.jpg

It's easy with a funnel with a tube on it.

http://www.club700xx.com/howto_images/oil_change15.jpg

1.8 US quarts should be all you need according to the guide.

After assemby I check all my bolts to make sure I didn't brain fart and skip one. After that I start it up and let it warm up. After it's warm I check the oil to make sure it's where it's supposed to be.

You're done!

Great write-up scuzz! :tup:

Thanks!

Ahh... so simple but so helpful. I would have changed mine already but didn't feel like reading the service manual lol.

GN4 comes out the bottle new "dirty" looking.

http://i82.photobucket.com/albums/j254/gwwaddle/TRX700XX/Oil%20change/100_8771.jpg

EW thats some dirty looking oil!

My dealer does all my services though... atleast for the next 3 years or 300 hours.

I'm too far from my dealer. A 3 hour drive up to Dallas for an oil change negates any savings from the free oil changes.

Good job Scuzz, makin sure that spring goes in before the oil filter is critical!!

So, I went to the local Honda dealer which I bought my 700xx. I asked for an oil filter for my quad, and changed the oil/filter. After doing so, I got a bad feeling that I needed to check the oil filter part number to make sure that I had the correct oil filter. The filter I installed fit perfectly and I have no idea why I got a bad feeling about it but I found that the part number should be 15410-KF0-315. This info came from the following website: http://www.motosport.com/atv/oem.php?make=HONDA&type=ATV&model=TRX700XX&year=2008&groupId=80570. The oil filter part number I was given reads 15412-HM5-A10. I was wondering for any of you that change your own oil if you could check what part number yours is on the package. I'm quite worried that I may have the incorrect filter.

Google that part number!
none that I saw listed the 700xx, just the fourtrax line.
I would triple check!

I have googled it and I cannot find any that list the XX on it for this part number. I'm going give my dealer a call but I don't completely trust them because they have already given me an incorrect air filter for the XX.

I've gotten two different part numbers from two different dealers. I'm starting to wonder if they just grab something out the bin that looks right.

Does the owners manual list the filter part number? I'm at work and don't have it handy.

I remembered looking when I made the how-to but couldn't find it.

NO,
The owners manual or the shop manual does not list the part number!:steamed:

Honda Code 1233907

I just spoke with my dealer and he gave me the same part number of oil filter as I bought from them. He also told me that Honda uses the same oil filters in all their quads. I don't get why there are different part numbers but it seems that they should be okay.

He also told me that Honda uses the same oil filters in all their quads.

Hm - hence me thinking they were grabbing from the bin-o-filters.

Good to know.

I just changed my oil per Gary's write up - excellent job!

Just being picky.. I did not see a pic of the spring..

Just being picky.. I did not see a pic of the spring..

Thanks for the feedback, I'll add that tonight when I'm taking my pipe off and changing the oil.

It's my son's birthday, so it may not happen.

I'm getting ready for my first oil change. Great write-up Scuzz.
One question, the Honda Repair manual mentions changing the wire-mesh filter in the oil hose connector. Is this something that needs to be done on a regular basis with the oil changes? It seems a little more complicated because it says to use a special kind of solvent to clean (flash solvent?) and then use canned air to blow dry.

I'm getting ready for my first oil change. Great write-up Scuzz.
One question, the Honda Repair manual mentions changing the wire-mesh filter in the oil hose connector. Is this something that needs to be done on a regular basis with the oil changes? It seems a little more complicated because it says to use a special kind of solvent to clean (flash solvent?) and then use canned air to blow dry.

THANKS!

The Honda Manual only mentions "If cleaning of each oil strainer is required (in oil tank; page 4-14. in crankcase: page 5-4) perform it before filling."

I haven't heard of anyone changing these even on the 400EX's unless the engine was letting serious amounts of metal shavings in the oil...then you probably have bigger issues than taking the screen out and cleaning it.

Funnel with a tube!!! If you have not changed your oil yet, make sure you have one. My first attempt was with a cheap filter with about a 1-1/2" nipple on the end, and I was spilling oil because the funnel had to fit in at an angle and could still barely reach. Before my next oil change I will definitely be using a different funnel.

Added torque warning for filter cover.

Added torque warning for filter cover.


True that. Use a smaller 1/4-inch drive if you are using a torque wrench. Believe me.

Sorry you had that problem bro.

That was just plain stupidity on my part. Still can't believe I did it. I did feel a little better after the mechanics at the shop said that they also had sheared off case bolts with a torque wrench. The good news is they assured me it would be ready by Friday so I can still go on my ride.

Impressive sig by the way, I didn't even realize what it was until I looked at it a couple of times.

That was just plain stupidity on my part. Still can't believe I did it. I did feel a little better after the mechanics at the shop said that they also had sheared off case bolts with a torque wrench. The good news is they assured me it would be ready by Friday so I can still go on my ride.

Impressive sig by the way, I didn't even realize what it was until I looked at it a couple of times.

Yeah, I've done it before on intake bolts when I was working on my SBC in my teens. It's easy to do with a torque wrench. It's a horrible feeling though when that bolt lets go and the force gets less and less.

I stole the sig off another site and customized it - I'm not that big of a nerd to be able to make that on my own.

Its called ASCII art...

here are some more

http://chris.com/ascii/

First oil changed yesterday.......post made it really easy. Took the filter apart no filings, nothing oil was clean after the first 4 tanks of gaz.

lefty C

Thanks for the warning on the oil filter cover bolts. When I changed the oil on my machine I used a 3/8 drive torque wrench to tighten the screws. I didn’t like the way the long bolt felt while torquing it. I stopped before the wrench clicked. After reading this post, I bought a new bolt and removed the original. Looking at it under the microscope it was obvious that the threads were stretched. Glad I didn't go any further with the torque wrench. The local dealer said not to use a torque wrench because there is an "O" ring under the cover and shouldn't be torqued. I guess it's your "call".
Thanks guys!!!
Sid

So, I went to the local Honda dealer which I bought my 700xx. I asked for an oil filter for my quad, and changed the oil/filter. After doing so, I got a bad feeling that I needed to check the oil filter part number to make sure that I had the correct oil filter. The filter I installed fit perfectly and I have no idea why I got a bad feeling about it but I found that the part number should be 15410-KF0-315. This info came from the following website: http://www.motosport.com/atv/oem.php?make=HONDA&type=ATV&model=TRX700XX&year=2008&groupId=80570. The oil filter part number I was given reads 15412-HM5-A10. I was wondering for any of you that change your own oil if you could check what part number yours is on the package. I'm quite worried that I may have the incorrect filter.

I was given part 15412-HM5-A10 Also.

:confused:Humm, I was given 15410-KF0-315. Wonder why this is a different part #, I keep all packages that I get for stuff like that in cases like these, all mine have the same part # 15410-KF0-315. Not any problems yet. It looks just like my 400ex oil filter! (I dont use honda filters in the ex) Matbe the same. I think Honda uses the same filter on a lot of quads and bikes. Not for sure bout that tho, just what I was told.:disgust::confused:

I've kept all my filter wrappers....don't know why....I'll see if there's an average.

so do you just lightly tighten the filter cover screws with a regular ratchet instead of torque wrench?

Thats all I do no problems here!

so do you just lightly tighten the filter cover screws with a regular ratchet instead of torque wrench?

DO NOT USE A TORQUE WRENCH FOR FILTER COVER BOLTS.

DO NOT USE A TORQUE WRENCH FOR FILTER COVER BOLTS.
:stupid:Sorry didnt mean to give the wrong impression. DONT USE A TORQUE WRENCH!

I bought repsol 4t synthetic oil as that what the dealer recommended to me. It's my first oil change is it ok to use synthetic for the xx, the manual doesnt mention anything.

I bought repsol 4t synthetic oil as that what the dealer recommended to me. It's my first oil change is it ok to use synthetic for the xx, the manual doesnt mention anything.

I used the gold synthetic Honda oil and didn't notice any difference. I'm fanatical about changing my oil and actually found more particles of metal in my oil after the synthetic that with conventional.

Now that being stated I didn't do a scientific count or anything like that - it was more of an impression that I was left with.

I literally have changed my oil after each ride since my 1st oil change. (this weekend being the exception with two consecutive days of riding on one oil change.

thanks!

No probleemo!

My impression was that you shouldn't use synthetic until your engine was good and broken in. So basically, use regular oil for the first few oil changes, and then after that you'd get better performance with synthetic. That's just what I heard.

^^^^

Same here.

I think the dealership people were selling you something you didn't need. (my opinion)

^^^^

Same here.

I think the dealership people were selling you something you didn't need. (my opinion)
:stupid: I think dealers just want ur mooolah! These things have been runnin for millions of years on conventional oil, I use regular HONDA oil in mine its fine and will be fine. So synthetic :birds: here's to u, and ur price!

Would not use Synthetic Oil!! Matlock smoked his clutch with it he said you could let the clutch out and it wouldn't do anything! Run the Honda stuff the GN4

I change my oil about every 3hrs riding.
I drain the oil as discibed at the start of this thread but just when you think the last drop of oil is out I start the quads engine and let it run for 2-3 seconds and switch it off again quickly. Some more oil comes out. I then fill with some cheap oil to the correct level and replace the drain plugs just past finger tight and run the motor for 3-4 minutes before draining the system again. When the oil stops dripping I start the motor as before for a couple of seconds and then change the filter this time too. I use a semi-synthetic oil to refill this time because I'm changing every 2-3 hrs riding it's not worth paying for a fully synthetic. There is no benefit from using a fully synthetic if you change and flush the system often.

I just changed my oil for my first time today it took 2.5 quarts of oil to fill up my quad and i read scuzz says to use only 1.8 did i do something wrong?

I just changed my oil for my first time today it took 2.5 quarts of oil to fill up my quad and i read scuzz says to use only 1.8 did i do something wrong?

I just changed mine and it was 1.8 quarts.

Can you go back to normal oil after using synthetic?

I just changed my oil for my first time today it took 2.5 quarts of oil to fill up my quad and i read scuzz says to use only 1.8 did i do something wrong?
check oil levels?? 2.5 quarts??? sounds like way to much...

I wouldn't go back stay with the synthetic.

check oil levels?? 2.5 quarts??? sounds like way to much...

Check your manual - it says 1.8 for sure.

My manual says 1.9L. Just changed it the other day.

My manual says 1.9L. Just changed it the other day.
mine says 1.9l also

Check your manual - it says 1.8 for sure.

...or 1.9.

:D

Guys from an automotive standpoint, (i work in automotives) if you start out with synthetic oil ,stay that way, and the same with conventional, the reason is due to all the various seals in your new motor, it has nothing to do with break in or the like. If you start the life of your engine with regular (organic ) oil, then your seals are saturated with the organic polymers because this oil has organic compounds.
Synthetic oil, on the other hand, lubricates great, but contains man made polymers that can actually work against these seals that are coated and saturated previously in conventional oil.. "they can actually work against one another". Swapping back and forth introduces lots of chemicals that can cancel out one another and lead to seal leakage. This standard actually applies to all engines, so rule of thumb is .... Stay with what u started with.....

I have been in the automotive repair business for 30+ years. I currently work as part of a management team that maintains 8200 vehicles. I currently own 9 vehicles. I have never seen any adverse affects (oil leaks or otherwise) from switching to synthetic oil in our fleet or my own “fleet”. When synthetic oil was first introduced there were oil leak problems. The problem was the oil seals would shrink without the presence of petroleum in the oil. Today’s synthetic oil contains a small amount of petroleum to prevent this from happening. IMHO synthetic oil is better than conventional. Most automotive oils contain moly, the clutch in your ATV does not like moly. I use Shell Rotella synthetic which is a diesel oil. The thing to watch for is the words energy conserving in the API label on the back of the container, if it does it contains moly don’t use it in your quad or anything that has a wet clutch that shares oil with the engine. I would not use synthetic oil for break in unless the manufacturer recommended it. Somewhere I have a link to a very in depth dissertation on synthetic oil vs conventional oil, if I find it I will post it up.

I already posted this same very thing.

I already posted this same very thing.

Good thing I don't race, I always seem to come in second....:nuts:

Good thing I don't race, I always seem to come in second....:nuts:


:P

:D

I looked on the down loadable service manual and it said 1.8 no filter and 1.9 with filter change. when I talked to honda they said they change the filter and pour in 2 quarts.

Skier
You sound very knowledgeable, and I certainly am not at odds with anything you have said: in fact i totally agree with all of it. Not to get into a contest: I work for the largest part supplier on planet earth (Denso Automotive) we are in the drivetrain division, and like I said earlier, you are spot on with your information. The point I was making is that if you say have a quad that has some miles on it and maybe a few oil changes, it is not recommended that you go away from what you are using (synthetic or conventional) due to the fact that each have their own polymers and detergants that saturate the seals, and switching will introduce different chemicals that can and do work against one another. Sometimes this does lead to pre-mature seal failure. I totally agree with you that IMO synthetic is probably superior, but my point is that i wont put synthetic in my un-restored 1974 bronco due to the fact that for the first 36yrs, it had conventional oil now if i ever have to re-build it....... then synthetic all the way ..

My dad and i accidentally put synthetic in our 1981 vette. I think puttin synthetic in somethin old like thats a bad idea cuz clearances aren't as tight and the mofo leaked 5 quarts of oil all over the garage floor during the night :steamed:

My dad and i accidentally put synthetic in our 1981 vette. I think puttin synthetic in somethin old like thats a bad idea cuz clearances aren't as tight and the mofo leaked 5 quarts of oil all over the garage floor during the night :steamed:

Sounds like someone didn't put the plug in right?

It could have also been the nut behind the steering wheel was loose...

No, the plug was in lol
apaarently the old seals just don't like synthetic oil :(

My dad and i accidentally put synthetic in our 1981 vette. I think puttin synthetic in somethin old like thats a bad idea cuz clearances aren't as tight and the mofo leaked 5 quarts of oil all over the garage floor during the night :steamed:

There is no way synthetic oil could cause an engine to leak all it's oil out while the vehicle is parked. It is just impossible it would have to leak out the bottom of the pan and the only thing at the bottom is the drain plug. Or a hole in the pan. I think maybe dad didn't want to fess up to leaving the plug loose.

mine took 2.3 quarts but i let it sit over night

My first oil change took right at 2 quarts. The second one took a little over 2.3 quarts.

My first oil change took right at 2 quarts. The second one took a little over 2.3 quarts.

how many times does the resovoir grow? that could get expensive...

how many times does the resovoir grow? that could get expensive...


lol!

what kind of oil filters are being used if done by ur self?? i found emgo an k&n oil filters i might buy

I always used the honda ones - I used a K&N before and wasn't happy.

k apparently k&n should just stay to cars n trucks n nothing else lol

Keep in mind, that's just my opinion. Others here probably love it.

:D

yea but seems like everyone dont like there intake either lol

I am going to do my first change as soon as my filters show up in the mail. Mine won't be as easy as the Honda though. I have 2 filters and 2 oil screens, as well as a useless sight glass.

what do u ride

09 polaris outlaw irs.
Love the engine but there is a lot of maintanence.

I have always used the ones from Honda, along with Honda oil.

I changed my oil yesterday.But a bit scared about the amount of oil i used. I removed the bolt from the engine and the one from the oil tank and removed the oil filter. All the oil was in a bucket. put 1.8 ltrs of new oil in quad and started up. Checked my oil level on dip stick nothing on there. So went and added more oil. Rechecked by starting quad let it idle for 5 mins then cool a bit then check level. I have put aprox 2.4 ltrs of oil in my quad. but the amount of old oil is aprox 2.4 ltrs to. this is the amount it says for a disassembly. on page 4-12 in service manual

I changed my oil yesterday.But a bit scared about the amount of oil i used. I removed the bolt from the engine and the one from the oil tank and removed the oil filter. All the oil was in a bucket. put 1.8 ltrs of new oil in quad and started up. Checked my oil level on dip stick nothing on there. So went and added more oil. Rechecked by starting quad let it idle for 5 mins then cool a bit then check level. I have put aprox 2.4 ltrs of oil in my quad. but the amount of old oil is aprox 2.4 ltrs to. this is the amount it says for a disassembly. on page 4-12 in service manual

Im quite skeptical about the amount myself. When i changed mine the first time i put in the 1.8L and it didnt even register on the stick either:confused: Does anybody know exactly what amount? Seems to me its over 2 quarts.

When I put my motor back together this last time it took a full three quarts, The manual stated it should have only took 2.5 quarts.

When I put my motor back together this last time it took a full three quarts, The manual stated it should have only took 2.5 quarts.

OMG - you riding?

I saw your eBay parts list. :P

eBay parts list?

It's been back together, Just haven't had time to go anywhere.

Great Post, thanks:yay:

Did my first oil change today, it was tit. Took 2 qts. good pics

Great Post, thanks:yay:

Thanks!

Did my first oil change today, it was tit. Took 2 qts. good pics

Thanks!

eBay parts list?

It's been back together, Just haven't had time to go anywhere.

I saw some of the parts that you ordered off of ebay. :)

Stalker lol. That project is making positive ground, Hope to post on it in a few weeks. Some parts will work, others don't.

LOL! Well, after your eBay car was stolen I couldn't help but look.

Let me know how you like that coil and how well it does with water and mud.

The coil and rev box won't work. I've sent my stock ecu out again to see what can be done.

Crap, I wanted to get that coil.

The parts fiche has oil filter numbers. I checked my 87 and 08 have the same filter.

Thanks for the direction Scuzz only took me about 15 minutes. Always easier to do once you see it done.

Thanks for the direction Scuzz only took me about 15 minutes. Always easier to do once you see it done.

No problem, glad I could help!

you might as well add the step...tip xx onto rear grab bar, remove OEM skid plate, wipe excess oil off......breathe easy and rest assured that you don't actually have an oil leak somewhere. (changed mine and had an oil spot in the garage under the oil filter-ish area.....too paranoid to tighten those bolts anymore.....buildup on the skid plate was the culprit...dont want to end up like a few others have on here in the past)

oh yeah...oil change with filter 2-2.2 liters....not even close manual

...or you could hose it off. :)

Hey I am new to ATV's and need to find out what the correct oil I should go with for my trx700xx? Honda GN-4, synthetic blend, or something from pep boys? Can anyone advise mw on what oil I should use? Does anyone have an idea on the filter too?

Help.

Ok well I am new to ATV's and need to perform an oil change on my 700. What oil can or should I use? Do I need the honda brand oil filter?

for this type of maintenance, I like to keep it OEM... Honda oil and filter... but pretty much any oil brand that you like

I use the Honda GN-4,

gn-4 but I will most likely be using Rotella for the next two rides.

I'd been posting I was using the GN-4 but when I was at the dealer the other day I noticed the synthetic goes by another abbreviation, I forget what it was though.

"H"

Yep, HP-4. I thougt it had and S in it but there site only shows HP and GN

Thank you

ok so im looking on rocky mountain right now and they have 10-30w 10-40w 20-50w and 5-30w gn4 so im wondering what you guys run and or recomend i know the manual will say 1 thing but not sure what you guys use. thanks in advance.

Honda GN-4 10w-40. Thats all my dealership carries other than Yamalube. So I use that and I think a lot of others use it also. Hope this helps.

ok so im looking on rocky mountain right now and they have 10-30w 10-40w 20-50w and 5-30w gn4 so im wondering what you guys run and or recomend i know the manual will say 1 thing but not sure what you guys use. thanks in advance.

I run 10W40, but I would pick the oil based on the temperature where I ride.

i grabbed some gn4 10/40w and thanks to this thread changing the oil was a breeze. o yea my bike took about 2.1 qts i put 1.8 it didnt register so i added the 2 and it barely registered so i added a lil more and its all good now. i"ll check again in the morning to see if its right.

i grabbed some gn4 10/40w and thanks to this thread changing the oil was a breeze. o yea my bike took about 2.1 qts i put 1.8 it didnt register so i added the 2 and it barely registered so i added a lil more and its all good now. i"ll check again in the morning to see if its right.


Did you start the bike up? b/c it should take almost 2.5 even though the manual says 2.3...I showed DaGirl this the other day. Start the bike up so it sucks the oil into the engine and the oil lines, and then check it again. I bet it wont even be on the dipstick. Also, the proper way PER THE TECH MANUAL to check the oil is to just stick the dip stick in the tank with out screwing it in.

i started the bike when i first put the 1.8 in let it run for about 3 minutes then i checked it and added the rest and started it again and let it run for about 2 minutes then checked it. BUT i did screw the dipstick in so im wondering what it will read if i dont screw it in.

Just did the first oil change on my XX at 155miles 7.6 hours. Oil was clean no metal in the filter.I put in 2qt rode it for 20 min cheched it again took .5qt more to fill it.

This thread is great!

(blush)

Nice post Scuzz, that helps the new kid on the block like myself. I will change my oil next weekend after the first 2 tanks of gas, is that right?

You're welcome. :tup:

I change mine after 2 tanks, or two rides.

Thanks for the write up Scuzz. I changed my t-rex's oil for the first time today! Has anybody had any trouble with oil just barely seeping out of the bottom of the filter cover? Mine seems to be just barely seeping oil from there? I'm affraid to tighten the bolts any more for fear of breaking one off in the motor?

Thanks for the write up Scuzz. I changed my t-rex's oil for the first time today! Has anybody had any trouble with oil just barely seeping out of the bottom of the filter cover? Mine seems to be just barely seeping oil from there? I'm affraid to tighten the bolts any more for fear of breaking one off in the motor?

Mine did once when I didn't replace the gasket. Take the oil residue off with some brake parts cleaner, jack that side of the bike up, and smear a little clear silicone on it. It will stop it. Or just replace the gasket. I now replace the gasket every time.

^^^Good info... thanks!

I haven't had to replace mine yet. (thankfully)

Mines brand new still? i've only ran a couple tanks of gas threw it? It looked like it was in good condition?

Hmm maybe it got pinched or something when it was changed or put on at the dealer...

I don't know? I'll hafta keep an eye on it. If it doesn't stop i guess i'll hafta get a new gasket?

If you have the time to get it now I would. You wouldn't want a $3 gasket to ruin a trip costing you a lot more than that.

:D

The dealer should have those in stock shouldn't they? I guess I'll try to get one just in case.

I would think they should. Some dealers are better than others.

Well I called the dealer I bought the bike from and... They gotta order it? WTF! It won't be here til tuesday? Gonna try another shop.

LMK - call the ones in Charlotte too. If needbe I can pick it up for you.

Ok thanks

When I get off work I'm gonna take it off and see if I can't get it to seal better. Hopefully it will.

I got two 700s, and I did first oil change on them but I got a small problem with one of them..
At first, I did a lot of research, then followed owners manual. After the oil change I made sure everything is in place. I start my atv and put into reverse. I stall it one time, then again. So I put into 1st gear, drive little bit, once I let the throttle off atv stalls.
It looked like something was blocking rear wheels. The atv would not roll when it was in neutral. I checked my parking brake even it had to be off to put into gear. I played with gears/brake while sitting and finally it was back to normal.
I wonder what was wrong? Did i mess up anything while doing oil change?

I followed the same oil change on my second atv and everything worked.

Parking brake! :p you can put the bike in gear with the parking brake still on! Don't ask me how I know this:D

i was wondering if anyone else has broke off the oil filter bolts off inside and if so how did u get that piece out

Yes it has been done. Not by me though cause i read Scuzz's awesome how to first! Those bolts are very easily broken by applying too much torque. I'm sure if you read threw this thread you will find an answer to your question.

I have done it with different kinds of bolts. I bought a bolt extractor kit such as this one http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_SPM173283192P?prdNo=10&blockNo=10&blockType=G10

You can get one from just about any auto store. I would suggest getting a kit as it will come in hand. Hope this helps.

ok i got a question. in the manual it says to check the oil by seting the stick on the threads when the engine is cold. then if its ok you start the engine on level ground, let idle for 5 min, wait 2 or 3 then check again. why both?

A question for those that have done an oil change. Is the bolt on the right side of the engine for draining oil or is it just for venting? It looks like if it is for draining, it will make a mess by draining on the frame and plastic guard. Looks like it would do the same even if you took off the plastic. Have you found a way not to make a mess? How about the same for the reservoir? Filter? :thanks:

the drain bolt is on the bottom center of the engine facein the left side....

Go to the how to forum and read Scuzz's how to. It's explained very well with pic.'s!

http://www.club700xx.com/vb/showthread.php?t=3727

Stupid is as stupid does. I was looking at the wrong one on the wrong side. I remember reading about it but I guess it just didn't soak in. Thanks.

:) no problem!

Regarding the use of a torque wrench, it is fine IF it is set correctly.

I have a 3/8" drive model that has Foot Pounds and Newton Meters. Using the "Newton Meter" setting, it is more precise and will match the service manual stated requirements.

If you are not using a "Quality" torque wrench, you need to be pretty careful. My wife gave me a 1/2" drive from Harbour Freight last year and I had it checked by a mechanic friend that has an expensive banjo type. He hooked them together to get a reading. At an indicated 85 lbs. on the HF one, his was reading 60 lbs. I took it back and exchanged it and the second one was on still off 15 lbs. Luckily, mine was reading on the high side and not the short side where I could have over done it. Sometimes it just pays to buy good equipment. Just my 2 cents worth.

Yeah all cheap torque wrenches should come with a Helicoil kit.

Yeah, I paid over $100 for mine. Use it plenty to justify the cost. I'd definately recommend purchasing a quality model.

I just did my first oil change on my XX using this very helpful How-To guide, it's really nice to have good pictures of the process.

I did run into something that I didn't see any one else bring up . The rubber o-ring was stuck to my engine case , I was able to peel it off gently. But for any first timers like me ,if you didn't notice it, you may end up with a mess of oil on the floor. (happened to me once on the wifes van, rubber seal from the old filter stayed stuck and I put the new one on over it.:confused:)

Thanks!!!


(and thanks for the info on the o-ring! - that didn't happen with me)

I did run into something that I didn't see any one else bring up . The rubber o-ring was stuck to my engine case , I was able to peel it off gently. But for any first timers like me ,if you didn't notice it, you may end up with a mess of oil on the floor. (happened to me once on the wifes van, rubber seal from the old filter stayed stuck and I put the new one on over it.:confused:)

Yeah, it's a good habit to check for the o-ring before you put it back together. I do the same for the metal washers on the bolts too. First oil change, one was on the bottom of the catch bin.

Did my 1st oil change today with GN4 10w-40. Read the manual plus this write-up. Very, very easy. I took my time though since it was the first change.

A couple of things...
-good call on being careful when tightening the oil filter cover bolts, seem fragile
-GN4 oil does look dirty
-Put in 1.9 quarts first, warmed up the bike, sat it for a minute, and then added around .3 quarts til the oil hit the full mark.

Great write-up

Thanks!

What would be a negative affect of useing 10w-30 oil apposed to 10w-40? Just wondering. Only services were done at Honda but definatly wanna do just the oil changes myself. Cheaper and less down time.

What would be a negative affect of useing 10w-30 oil apposed to 10w-40? Just wondering. Only services were done at Honda but definatly wanna do just the oil changes myself. Cheaper and less down time.

The manual actually calls for 10w-30, but most dealers only sell the 10w-40. 10w-40 is thinner and better for cooler climates.

Don't know about where you live but around here, you can not find 10w-30 that is not an energy saving oil except at the dealer. The oil labeled as energy saving had additivesa that will make your clutch slip. I have run 10w-40 or 15w-40 with out that label for years. Have even used 20w-50 in the hot summers. There are several brands that make it. I uaually buy Shell Rotella T in the 14w-40 or Cheveron since that is what I also run in my diesel truck.

The best quad deservers the best oil 10w-40 Amsoil Synthetic:lol:

I will continue to use GN4, however, in the summers (live in PA), should I just continue to use 10w-40 or use the 20w-50 because of the 90+ degree temps? Rocky Mtn sells both.

I personally don't see how you can go wrong in the summer time with the 10w-40 or 15w-40. I basically use it year around and it is probably safe to say it gets a lot hotter here in Texas that Pa. However, I have run 20w-50 in my older Raptor just because of the wear and tear for the last 10 years. The only time I have noticed a difference was this past summer. We spent it in the mountains of Colorado at 8500' and above and had 30wlike the manual calls for, in my little Honda generators and on a pretty cold morning, the oil would not flow enough to trip the low oil switch and would not start until later in the day when the temps came up. I changed to 10w-30 in both of them and they would start every morning. Just my 2 cents worth...

I stand corrected. Just returned from Wally World and looked through the oil while there. Pennzoil makes a 5w-20, 5w-30 and a 10w-30 that is not Energy Conserving. It is their High Mileage Oil. Just check out the little circle on the back of the container.

im not sure were the 1.8 came from but my first took 2.3 to the top of stick even with it screwed in 1.8 only comes to the middle of stick i dont expect any diff on the next. scuzz you must make way to much money if you or any one else for that matter can afford to change oil every ride, or mabey not riding enough....lol

Yep, that's it - I'm making too much money to afford a $15 oil change.

Isn't hard to believe that there could be so many posts about changing oil. The pictures and how to pretty much says it all.

Nothing wrong with questions though, that's why we're all here. :)

Changing my oil for 1st time. I was stupid and took to dealer for the 20 hour service. Manual says on 4-11 to check oil "make sure the vehical on firm level ground while idling" I had no clue that you would check the oil while it was runing! So what kind of false reads could you get if just checking it on pre run's like I've been doing?

Changing my oil for 1st time. I was stupid and took to dealer for the 20 hour service. Manual says on 4-11 to check oil "make sure the vehical on firm level ground while idling" I had no clue that you would check the oil while it was runing! So what kind of false reads could you get if just checking it on pre run's like I've been doing?

Read the *note* towards the bottom of the page.

I read note and still not to sure about the way things are worded. Maybe I'm just anal, cause you wouldn't recomend runing your engine for 10 mins before checking oil level, would you? I mean cause if it was low I would think 10 mins, could do some damage? So isn't checking the oil on this pretty much the same as a car? And what's the trick to catching all the oil that comes out when you take off the filter cover? I dont know maybe I should just stick to the letting the dealer doit?

you're over thinking it!... turn on the engine, let it idle for a bit (do not rev/just idle), take off the drain bolts, drain, put them back on, and fill it up again. simple!

you're over thinking it!... turn on the engine, let it idle for a bit (do not rev/just idle), turn off the quad, take off the drain bolts, drain, put them back on, and fill it up again. simple!


Fixed. :)

Fixed. :)

You're right... lol... how could I forget!

He ask about checking the oil lol.

I will run gn-4 till warranty runs out and i always run honda filters as i have had problems with aftermarket filters, but as soon as warranty runs out i will switch to lucas atv and motorcycle oil for race engines or something like that( I dont have any here right now). they claim a 10 degree temp drop with their oil and I have seen it actually work. I had a Nacs racing 440 ex that would boil the gas in the tank after a heat and it cooled that motor way down. I have been a firm believer since

I will run gn-4 till warranty runs out and i always run honda filters as i have had problems with aftermarket filters, but as soon as warranty runs out i will switch to lucas atv and motorcycle oil for race engines or something like that( I dont have any here right now). they claim a 10 degree temp drop with their oil and I have seen it actually work. I had a Nacs racing 440 ex that would boil the gas in the tank after a heat and it cooled that motor way down. I have been a firm believer since

10 degree drop in coolant temp or oil temp? If the coolant temp is 190 degrees and you drop it down to 180, that's not necessarily a good thing. The same is true with oil. What if the oil just has additives that don't absorb heat? That means all of the heat is in the engine itself. Either way that spec is irrelevant without more information.

I think it's not that it doesn't absorb the heat, but rather that it allows for less friction.

I am not sure that you can get a 10 degree drop in coolant temp because of the thermostat. Maybe it it runs a lot hotter than the set temp of the thermostat.

drop in engine temp. actually checked jug temp with non touch temp probe laser thingy..

Good job scuzz I liked the photos I just bought this 08 XX and it has only three tanks of gas through it the oil still looks golden so what you guys think just go ahead and change it the oil or what? Thanks.

If its still the factory breakin oil, I'd change asap. Manual says after 20 operating hours or one month. And you did say it was a 08 model.

thank you! excellent write up! i appreciate it big time, just changed my oil, i'm running amzoil 20-50 and used the factory filter! because of your write up it went smooth! thanks brotha!

Changed my oil for the first time today, I used Honda filter and Honda HP4S full synthetic 10w-30w seems to have taken some of the noise out of the engine runs smooth as silk. So far I am liking the synthetic.
Regards,
Dewking

Awesome thred . . thank you so much for instuctions and pics. Have a couple questions . . .
I race an 450r and change a tranny and engine side. I am about to do my husbands first 700xx oil change and want to make sure it's just the one side drain. No tranny side? I run Rotella (preferred for Rekluse clutch), I saw one post about it, any negatives about it going in the 700xx too?

Thank you.