in three weeks the new powercommander V will be avalable with the option of auto tune attachment comes with wideabnd O2 sensor and bung

For 09 Motorcycles only

It's all abuzz over on the raptor forums. You'll need to mount an O2 sensor too.

Running 110 gas?

Better hope it plays nice with the sensor...

The site says for motorcycles only though... Are they planning to splice the connectors?

Found the thread:

http://www.raptorforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=48558&highlight=commander

Well, the best thing I read in those threads is that hopefully the price of a PCIII should come down.

Yeah, that was what I thought too.

Too bad I *just* bought one.

Ah well, I don't plan on selling it anyways...

its my understanding that the power commander v is for 2 piston machines ..hence the picture of the v-twin.

......and welding in an exhaust bung is a PITA.

I will be at the Dealer Expo Not this weekend but the next. I saw that Power Commander will be there with the new V. I will stop in there booth and check it out. Anything else any one is interested in me checking out?

......and welding in an exhaust bung is a PITA.

Eh, I like welding, did all this myself on my truck, straights, bends, flanges and O2 bungs... then painted.

http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u69/blak92/Pic163.jpg

And then made this inner tank for my, sorta hiden emmsions freindly fuel sump outa door kick plates, stainless...

http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u69/blak92/Pic1068_4.jpg


Im no master at it, but I like it, and my stuff does hold together and at least look somewhat neat. :hey:


I would be very interested in having my XX run in what sounds like "closed loop".

Blak92.....that looks the goods. Can't weld but wish I could.

The PC-V won't be a closed loop system; I suspect it won't even run in real time. I gotta check it out but I suspect you would click the PC-V in to oxy sensing mode to tune then set and forget. You would end up with about the same result as a PCIII but without use of a dyno.

Wait dont Dynojet make that and do the testing at their facility in Las Vegas?



the same facility that turned me away because my evo was "too" modifyed :lol:

jk...they were looking for stock evos last year....mine not quite stock.

Time to pay them a visit.

I just pulled the trigger and bought one! ( a PCV)

Now if I only had an exhaust with a bung built into the headpipe.......

Now if I only had an exhaust with a bung built into the headpipe.......

:stupid:

[hint hint Alba!] :D

Bump!

Now if I only had an exhaust with a bung built into the headpipe.......

No worries if ya can weld, take it to a reputable muffler shop that installs stainless. Life is good with PCV and auto tune!:yay:

in the pic above, how come you went so close to the header? I thought the o2 readings would be off especially on a short exhaust. Not sure, but something I remember reading about.

IMO since an O2 sensor really is just a temperature sensor you would want it as close as possible to the hot gasses for a correct reading.

IMO since an O2 sensor really is just a temperature sensor you would want it as close as possible to the hot gasses for a correct reading.
I had no idea it was a temp sensor in reality, that would make sense.

I thought the a/f mixture was higher closer to the header.. Where are they placed on cars? That may be a good indicator.

Did not know it was only a temp sensor, I know DJ recommends it being soldered 6in from headpipe beginning.

Wait. I may be wrong, I'm reading up on it now.

The probe

The sensor element is a ceramic (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ceramic) cylinder plated inside and out with porous platinum (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Platinum) electrodes; the whole assembly is protected by a metal gauze. It operates by measuring the difference in oxygen between the exhaust gas and the external air, and generates a voltage or changes its resistance depending on the difference between the two. The sensors only work effectively when heated to approximately 316 °C (600 °F), so most newer lambda probes have heating elements encased in the ceramic to bring the ceramic tip up to temperature quickly when the exhaust is cold. The probe typically has four wires attached to it: two for the lambda output, and two for the heater power, although some automakers use a common ground for the sensor element and heaters, resulting in three wires. Earlier non-electrically-heated sensors had one or two wires.

An O2 sensor uses heat(around 600degrees) to create a chemical reaction that is used to measure oxygen. The sensor compares the amount of Oxygen in the exhaust manifold to the oxygen outside of the manifold, the variances of those two values vary the voltage ( 0 to 1.1 volts) that is read by ECM.
It is important to keep the outside of the sensor free from contaminants such as oil, antifreeze or anything that will block its ability to get fresh air.

Damn, Gary you type fast.:yay:

I'm good at the Internet.

lol

Dusty at DynoJet recommends that the O2 Sensor is installed between 6 and 9 inches from the header flange. Here is a picture of mine.
http://i82.photobucket.com/albums/j254/gwwaddle/TRX700XX/CIMG0003.jpg

I would take the DJ's word for it... It is for a quad correct?

I cant shake this notion of installing further away due to the size of an atv exhaust compared to most applications (smaller)... But I am just a guy who reads way to much, and initially believed everything I read on exriders..

Jeez, I'm glad someone cleared up that. An oxy sensor is definately not just a temp sensor. I would put mine in the spot the MFR has his. The sensor does need to be placed in both a possition where it can get nice and hot (but not so close it gets a exhaust flame in the pipe) and also in a practicle possition that is accessable and protected.

Linc

Yeah, I corrected myself pretty quickly there....

For inquiring minds who wanna know its exactly 9" from the exhust port around the bend. :)

in the pic above, how come you went so close to the header? I thought the o2 readings would be off especially on a short exhaust. Not sure, but something I remember reading about.

Its actually 9" down the pipe. Notice the pipe bend is significantly diffrent then the other photo.

Your install looks good. You just dont want it closer than 6" and will work fine long as you dont install it from 4 o'clock to 8 o'clock and you can go back as far as you want long as you keep it on the header pipe. I installed mine so that it leans inward but kept clearance between the cylinder to protect it.

How many people have the PCV?

I think there's three here.

I do

I do

Would you mind emailing me your map? The one I have I'm not fond of.

I am using the default Slip on with Stock air Filter that you can download off of PC's website. I have not put my UNI Filter on Yet.

Oh, I'm using the one that Fuelmoto sent with it...I wasn't aware of there being on on their site. I'll check it out. THANKS!


*LATE EDIT*

Looks like PC3 maps....where are the PCV ones?