After seeing Gary's (scuzz) torn CV Boot, I began to think i could suffer the same fate. I know the utility guys have brush guards on thier a-arm skid plates to protect thier CV joints, so I'm searching for the same to fit the XX. This is one I found so far, made by Ricochet and sold as a four piece set for $125. I'll keep searching too.



http://www.utahsportcycle.com/store/page292.html

Good find. Those will help you in the mudd too.

After seeing Gary's (scuzz) torn CV Boot, I began to think i could suffer the same fate. I know the utility guys have brush guards on thier a-arm skid plates to protect thier CV joints, so I'm searching for the same to fit the XX. This is one I found so far, made by Ricochet and sold as a four piece set for $125. I'll keep searching too.



http://www.utahsportcycle.com/store/page292.html

Ricochet makes the best skids period. I have a set on all my other bikes.

I know PRM makes front and rear guards as well as full and swing arm skids. I have the rear guards but not the front. I think they were $85 for the set. Very nice quality. I have the Ricochet brand swing arm guard on my 400EX and it's very nice quality also.

i got prm skids for the hole bike front and back and the main chassis i think is was like $350.00 www.prm-atv.com (http://www.prm-atv.com) i had no problems with install well worth the money!!!

It seems like all the pics I find of Rear arm guards are with the bike tipped up and no clear shot of a brush guard from the front, is there coverage there? Can someone post up a pic to show?

no my prms only go up as hi as the pipe on the front bottom a-arm

What is that piece that covers the rear "swing arm" it goes up around the rear suspension .Is this overkill?

What is that piece that covers the rear "swing arm" it goes up around the rear suspension .Is this overkill?

Brush guard, Its helps protect the CV boots from being torn by sticks and such that may be kicked up by front tires.

ahh.. makes sense. Looked a bit ugly in the photo. I really like the looks of the IRS

Yes it is a shame to cover it up.

So, if you had to piece meal (to hide from wife). Do you get front, full, or rear skid first?

I was thinking front because factory has something for middle and rear frame (better than nothing). and rears last because they have something that represents a plastic web.. not sure what this is supposed to be.

Get a new Wife first then buy everything, just kidding.:D it's probably best to cover the engine first then the rear.

Group buy?

Group buy?

I'm probably down for that.

I went with the PRM full set because they recess the mounting bolt locations. The Ricochet set that I saw had the bolt heads sticking down and in the rocky places I ride, I didnt want to have to drill out the bolts when it came time to take them off. If you ride only in sandy areas i guess this wouldnt be a concern

The Pro Armor skids have recessed mounting points as well. I like having two separate skid plates so that it is a little easier to remove for oil changes and sprocket swaps.

http://i39.tinypic.com/1zozq14.jpg

http://i40.tinypic.com/25foiue.jpg

http://i42.tinypic.com/e0fw8z.jpg

http://i43.tinypic.com/r2us82.jpg

Looks good. They didnt have any when I got mine. PRM was the only one making them at the time. I like the 2 piece plate as well

the Rico's are 2 piece.

im just going to throw this out there i cut the side plastics on mine do to the nerf bars being instaled (looks sweet) if you where wondering but eny way you can get to the sproket from the side easier and with the prm skid you dont have to take to change the oil it has a hole cut for the plug

I did my sprocket from the side. It seemed much easier that way than to take the skid off.

why do 4 or more bolts when you can just do the one on the sproket?? work smarter not harder

im just going to throw this out there i cut the side plastics on mine do to the nerf bars being instaled (looks sweet) if you where wondering but eny way you can get to the sproket from the side easier and with the prm skid you dont have to take to change the oil it has a hole cut for the plug

Have you changed your oil yet? The drain plug faces to the side instead of straight down and half the oil misses the hole and drains on the skid plates. I take the skid plate off to avoid the mess. You can access the retaining bolt on the sprocket from the side, but if you can get your hands in there to remove the sprocket, lace a new sprocket into the chain, and get the new sprocket mounted without pulling the skid plate you are far more talented then I am. I need my room to work and assure that everything is put on correctly and torqued to the factory specs.

When you do your oil change pull the oil drain bolt out most of the way, but not all the way. The oil will drain straight down and avoid the skid plate. With as much trouble I had getting my Pro Armor skid to line up correctly, I will never take it off until I have to replace it. IMO taking the heel guard off to access the sprocket is far easier than taking the skid off if it's an aftermarket one with 3 bolts and 3 clamps on the frame. I did my sprocket in about 20 mins this way.

This is where my pressure washer would really come in handy...

i havent changed the oil yet but like every one said it only takes two mins to hose off the mess and i did change the sproket from the side and it is tight but not that bad rather then having to realine all the ten thousand bolt prm put on there skid plats