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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
just wondering if any one has tried anything like this before, after racing dirt track speedway last night, i had several people come and tell me that the right hand rear wheel had huge ammounts of positive rear camber (the top further out than the bottom) so im trying to find a set of standard rear upper arms that i can cut and modify to accept a adjuster in the middle, similar idea to steering tie rods just shorter,

the reason i want to do this with a different set of arms is my main style of riding is enduro and i dont want to do anything i cant undo

if anyone has tried this and has any do's or dont's or even has any insight or a set of standard upper arms they want to sell it would be greatly appreciated
 

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I heard that Baxter had been talking to Ed at Teixeira Tech to see if he could make some. I think he said he would but he was too busy at the time to do it.
 

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yeah ED was going to do a set when he isnt busy but I think he is always busy lol its hard to keep up with supply and demand when your products work as good as his

if you take a look at the ones he sells you could probably make some up thier not that hard of course they wouldnt be as strong or as good looking without that teixeira logo
you could call him and see if he has figured anything out about them yet
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
i thought baxter might have had this idea already, looking at the arse end today with the mate whos Aus #1 in modified sedans which happend to be indapendant rear end, im thinking i might strengthen the top 2 arms by replacing them with thick walled chromemolly and tap them to fit a 5/8 or 9/16 rose joint, and may even do both sides so i can run about 25 degrees negative camber right rear and about 15 degrees positive camber left rear,

its going to look really odd and scary to ride when its all done but im hoping it will turn it into a weapon as i have no problem catchign them down the straights, i just loose them in the corners caus i cant get it to handle right
 

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i thought baxter might have had this idea already, looking at the arse end today with the mate whos Aus #1 in modified sedans which happend to be indapendant rear end, im thinking i might strengthen the top 2 arms by replacing them with thick walled chromemolly and tap them to fit a 5/8 or 9/16 rose joint, and may even do both sides so i can run about 25 degrees negative camber right rear and about 15 degrees positive camber left rear,

its going to look really odd and scary to ride when its all done but im hoping it will turn it into a weapon as i have no problem catchign them down the straights, i just loose them in the corners caus i cant get it to handle right


What sway bars (front and back)are you running??
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
Just running standard for the moment, thought about running sway bars but I want the bike to lean to transfer the weight to get more right rear drive, I'm hoping to have a similar set up to What the amerians call a modified but with IRS, just to try it and see what it does, caus I set us a late model here in Aus for the boss and I'm wondering what setups transfer across to quads
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Unless I'm barking up the wrong tree and should go with camber adjustment and rigid swaybars,
 

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I have a few ideas on adjustiable uppers for the rear. Depends on whether yo want to modify a few things or basically keep it stock . Simpliest is to put rose joints on the frame end of the rear a arms. Another idea which I was thinkin about was using the Polaris IRS idea and having a single joint on the upper.
How low where you thinking of going ?
 

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just wondering if any one has tried anything like this before, after racing dirt track speedway last night, i had several people come and tell me that the right hand rear wheel had huge ammounts of positive rear camber (the top further out than the bottom) so im trying to find a set of standard rear upper arms that i can cut and modify to accept a adjuster in the middle, similar idea to steering tie rods just shorter,
did you bend you lower a arm cuz unloaded the xx has negative camber on both rear wheels, and just that it only on one wheel make it seam like a bent a arm?
 

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did you bend you lower a arm cuz unloaded the xx has negative camber on both rear wheels, and just that it only on one wheel make it seam like a bent a arm?
Nah, he is hammering through a left hand corner. The right rear will be fully loaded while the left rear will be unloaded so the left rear will be negative and the right rear will be positive.

Have to shorten the right rear upper arm to keep the tire more towards 0 when loaded but I think setting it up to be at 0 in the corners would make going down the straights odd.

But I've never done that style of racing so I will just keep my mouth shut.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Nah, he is hammering through a left hand corner. The right rear will be fully loaded while the left rear will be unloaded so the left rear will be negative and the right rear will be positive.

Have to shorten the right rear upper arm to keep the tire more towards 0 when loaded but I think setting it up to be at 0 in the corners would make going down the straights odd.

But I've never done that style of racing so I will just keep my mouth shut.
Yeah going down the straights will be a bit odd, but I'm lucky in the fact that the track we have here is rather oval so it's not like 2 drag strips with bends at the end, so it's more beneficial to have speed through the corners than speed down the straights,


Baxter: I havnt put a huge amount Of thought yet into how low I wanna go as I'm not sure if sPeedway is something I'm going to put all my effort into yet, but I am aware that the camber angle is going to change depending on ride height, I have put a bit of thought into lowering it, bit just not sure on the best way to do it yet as I don't really have the funds to get a separate set of shocks just for speedway, I could shorten the standard shocks but then there nothing like the podium x's I'm running atm
 

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Nah, he is hammering through a left hand corner. The right rear will be fully loaded while the left rear will be unloaded so the left rear will be negative and the right rear will be positive.

Have to shorten the right rear upper arm to keep the tire more towards 0 when loaded but I think setting it up to be at 0 in the corners would make going down the straights odd.

But I've never done that style of racing so I will just keep my mouth shut.
If you have any ideas on this subject , Please post them. You would be surprised how many times ,I am using a "Best" guess.

Yeah going down the straights will be a bit odd, but I'm lucky in the fact that the track we have here is rather oval so it's not like 2 drag strips with bends at the end, so it's more beneficial to have speed through the corners than speed down the straights,


Baxter: I havnt put a huge amount Of thought yet into how low I wanna go as I'm not sure if sPeedway is something I'm going to put all my effort into yet, but I am aware that the camber angle is going to change depending on ride height, I have put a bit of thought into lowering it, bit just not sure on the best way to do it yet as I don't really have the funds to get a separate set of shocks just for speedway, I could shorten the standard shocks but then there nothing like the podium x's I'm running atm
I am running about 7 1/2" frame clearance and it seems to work for the track ,I race on and could get away with just altering the righthand side upper. If there was more grip ,then I could go lower.Scrawny helped me out alot on setup for this kinda racing.
 

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I was just picturing having a setup like the CXC uppers but without the caster adjustment. Just have a ball joint you can pull in and out.

But how would doing that effect the CV shaft?
 

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I was just picturing having a setup like the CXC uppers but without the caster adjustment. Just have a ball joint you can pull in and out.

But how would doing that effect the CV shaft?
I had the same idea ,remove the ball joint and replace it with a rose joint and modify the rear hub carrier to have a single upper mounting.
 

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Baxter,
Have you considered the effects of having adjustable toe in/out on the rear tires? In my experience with IRS cars especially under power, toe out promotes oversteer and toe in promotes understeer.

Just a thought
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Baxter,
Have you considered the effects of having adjustable toe in/out on the rear tires? In my experience with IRS cars especially under power, toe out promotes oversteer and toe in promotes understeer.

Just a thought
Its not so ,uch getting more oversteer out of the bike, its about getting the whole tyre incontact with the floor, for better handling and traction
 

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I plan on making a new set of adjustables for mine since I noticed the same thing when I lowered it for ice racing. I kept ripping out one row of studs on the outer edge of the outside rear tire and couldn't figure it out until I noticed that the camber was way off.

Been thinking about this for a while, so any input before starting is welcome

Looks like the easiest way will be to make a jig from a stock one, to get all the mount points right. I was going to do rod ends where the A-arm attaches to the frame. Since the stock A-arm meets the frame at different angles, cutting off the stock arm ends and adding rod ends won't work. So I was going to bend up a new arm, where both legs meet the frame at 90 deg. angles, so the rod ends could be adjusted simultaneously to adjust camber.

Any thoughts?
 

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Any chance you could turn down a piece of solid stock to fit the id, bend it to get the 90, insert and weld to the tube on the frame side of the uppers? Tap the solid and then use some heim joints? Like some of the Roll Design front uppers. You would have to take the bolts out to adjust them though.
 

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Any chance you could turn down a piece of solid stock to fit the id, bend it to get the 90, insert and weld to the tube on the frame side of the uppers? Tap the solid and then use some heim joints? Like some of the Roll Design front uppers. You would have to take the bolts out to adjust them though.

Same concept- I just don't know if I'll have enough room if I cut off a stocker to make the "s" bend needed to shore up the angles. Too tight of a bend radius would be a bad thing. Lose a good amount of workable tube length with the heim joint- if I use a 3/8 thread joint, figure about 1" for bung body, then at least another 1.5" from the face of the bung to the eyelet hole ad a mid range adjustment. So I run out of bendable length pretty quick. All I know is that I'll end up doing whichever is easier!
 

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Yes, I think it will be a PIA either way. Take a look at the roll design web site and you might get some more ideas to make it easier, they make some pretty trick stuff. The YFZ uppers are what I was looking at.
 
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