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Hey Joe we are sending tim at barkers some stuff to dyno a brand new 700xx next week. Our lid, tuner and his pipe so we can have pre-post results for the exact setup. It will be about as close as out of the box no hassel performance as you can get. I will put the result up when we get them.
 

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you dont have to do anything and it will work fine but i highly suggest playing with it that is the beauty about FI it gives you the ability to make changes on the fly. The controllers are very easy to work with once you do it a few times. It will be setup for your situation how it shows up and it should work very well but there will almost always be a need to try a few things to see if its setup the best for your bike. Everybike and situation is a little different even with the same parts installed it will be close but may or may not be perfect. We have no problem with people calling us for a intial walk through verbally of how the controller works or with questions and usually after they read the instructions and install it they are comfortable with how it works.

as far as specific changes once you tune it in the stock fi will do a ok job of keeping up with temp difference but adding a little fuel or taking it away usually will work better IMO if your changing altitudes you will want use the controller
 

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from what i understand, the autotune pcV is a wideband sensor plugged into the power commander, this allows you to put in a desired air fuel ratio and the pcv does the calculations for you, with this setup the pcv is always adjusting to temperature changes and will readjust everytime a mod is added.
i have been looking at the auto tune for my quad and streetbikes but atm im just sitting on the fence because i looked at EHS dyno charts and have been reading about the programmer and it seems just as easy.

the only thing i am looking at is tunability for future mods or climate changes as you have mentioned, would we have to download a new tune for each mod from ehs? the climate change is not usually a big enough problem to worry about. im sure EHS will answer this for us.
Your correct the pc5 with the wideband kit will auto calibrate at least is supposed I have some mixed opinions on how well it does. But its technology is very cool and overall it’s a pretty neat setup. What one doesn’t want to do though is basically set it to operate at one constant afr rate. Generally the going consensus is that everyone thinks engines run there best at somewhere are 13.0 or whatever they want basically somewhere in the 13.-14 area. Which is true somewhat.

Usually when I tune something I will shoot for a 13.0 flat line to start with then I will play with different areas that either likes more or less fuel. Some engines will like to be at 12.5-12.7 and make the most power there some like a range lean on bottom rich on top or vice vs one could set it at a constant rate of 13 and it will perform well but not great you really need to find out where it wants to run richer and where it want to run leaner so even if you have a auto tune you should still play with it. Also one really needs to keep an eye on it to make sure its doing what it supposed to and no overcorrecting or reading false values. DJ still recommends taking it to a tuning center to verify that the map is right and its working correctly


As far as our controller the map that comes with it is pretty adjustable but it is made for a certain scenario. The adjustments we leave on it would make it possible to add a cam or a piston or something similar. But for something radical like what we did for the top end package a new starting map is really necessary the fuel hand offs and delivery quantity/times are all different. It is not something one can download directly we would have to update the controller with a different parameter set which we would do for free.

I will give you a common scenario we try to plan for customer buys a kit pipe, controller, lid the controller is setup for that when it shows up customer tunes it in for his needs (usually very minor adjustments).

Brief outline of settings if you want to read more about them go here. (Right hand side)
http://www.ehsracing.com/products/efi_controllers.htm

Six modes of adjustment
1- Low speed fuel quantity
2- Mid or accell fuel quantity
3- High or wide open fuel quantity

4- Low speed fuel timing
5- Mid or accell fuel timing
6- High or wide open fuel timing



We try to set it so it’s at its low range of adjustments for quantity so when they add upgrades there is plenty of room for more fuel that is necessary. But we leave it so one could run a stock lid or something where less fuel was necessary.

customer wants to change cam say a hotcam stg 2 or 3 this change would generally require more fuel in the mid to high sectors of the map so the would add fuel in modes 2 and 3 but it will also change where the duration and peak lift comes into play.

A stg 2 cam is generally a mid-top end cam this means that you may want to change how the map relates for timing it might work better to have the accell mode or #2 to be a longer mode and you wanted to prevent the controller from jumping to the 3rd mode which handles the bulk of the fuel delivery so you would go to mode 6 and raise the setting making that mode come on at a later time

Or a stg 3 is generally a top end cam it might like to be in the 3rd mode longer so you want it to jump into mode 3 quicker which will carry the bulk of the fuel delivery earlier so you go to mode 6 and lower the setting(basically get more fuel quicker). Which also it may require the other handoffs to get altered so 4, and 5 may need to get lowered also to keep the fuel timing happy.

Hopefully I didn’t over complicate it, it’s really pretty easy to adjust and the above is just generalizations, the way we set each controller is very specific for each model of bike they all like different things and respond better to different curves which is the backend stuff we figure out so you don’t have to.

Climate changes are much easier to adjust for
 
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