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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Should this pipe be against the engine? I would have thought it would have some clearance in there. You can't slide a sheet of paper through it. I think it will be ok if it IS supposed to be against it, but I'm just checking with you guys as I didn't get any instructions (not that you have to be a rocket scientist) to put it together.



 

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I have measurements floating around on the forum some place but there needs to be a gap there not much of one but something. The usual reason its tight there is because the can is generally not installed far enough into the billet bracket which pushes it closer to the cases.

as you push the can further into the clamp you will want the head studs loose the further you raise the head pipe up towards the seat the more clearence you will get where you need it as well.

just loosen the stuff up and play with it you will get it. I put a big screwdriver or a open end wrench in the billet clamp to keep it open so when your moving it around it doesnt scratch the can. this allows you to position everything easier if its a little bit off the extra room dries up quickly
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
just loosen the stuff up and play with it you will get it. I put a big screwdriver or a open end wrench in the billet clamp to keep it open so when your moving it around it doesnt scratch the can. this allows you to position everything easier if its a little bit off the extra room dries up quickly
I'll try to do that today, yeah and a light application of Mothers mag/aluminum polish will get those scratches off ;) It's almost impossible to get that clamp on without scratching it.
 

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thats worse than the old design. mine rubbed in the twelve clock pos andyours lookar the s like the 10 clock where yours is rubbing. thats bs. i probaly will never buy another barker for my xx . they told me to take an arbor press and bend the header to clear the case. should of fit right first time ill probally go with a duncan or sparks, wish trinity made one they have a killer new packing system for repacks:xx:
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Man, now you guys have me kind of scared. I've only fired this up for 5 seconds, haven't even rode it... it hasn't even burned the oil off my hands off of it and you have me wondering. I wondered about that connection because where the pipe was expanded for the head pipe to slip in, was WAY off to one side. I kinda said WTF when I saw it, but I just kept on. I was able to put about 1/4" on the gap tonight. Here are new pics. Nothing a crow bar can't fix! I would contemplate sending it back, but I have a big trip i'm leaving for - in 12 hours... I can't take everything off now.



 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Here's the best pic I currently have of that expansion connection joint.

A. you can see is a smooth transition on the back side.
B. There's a HUUUUGE hump in the pipe where the expander pushed way out to one side.
 

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Wow looks like you scratched the piss out of your case trying to get clearance!



HMF Header below...

 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
^^^ it looks that way but I didn't notice it till I saw the pics.
 

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tbird i thought you were one of the guys that got a new pipe? I remeber you had issues before but i thought they sent you a new one. There was a batch of about 10 systems or so that they made up wrong probably 2 years ago now to my knowledge they took care of all them i know they sent out quite a few new pipes to guys that had them even some after having them for like 6 months.

5w i cant really see from the pics the offset swell sorta but its hard if it is wrong you can send it back im sure they will get you straightend out just send a pic over to [email protected] you can go on your ride still and take care of it when you get back it wont be an issues

the clearence you have to the case now is close to what its supposed to be but the swell should be even and if its offset would make it sit closer
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
^^^Eric, thanks for the input! I'll try to get a better picture for you guys... My main concern was it leaking, but it seemed to fit tight. Haven't ran it long enough to see if its leaking, i'll find out this morning.
 

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5W0P3, any more issues with your pipe and case after riding so far?
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
It's running good. No issues. I want to get it on a Dyno as I think it needs some more work on the tune. It seems to want to bog at the top of 3rd, 4th and 5th gear... I'd like to tune it specifically for 93 octane gas. Not sure if i can with the EHS tuner... eric? What do I need to do.

My quad, stage 3 cam and big3 lost to a stock outlander 800, time and time and time again... and i'm a good rider and can launch this thing like nobody's business. That happened the first time I took it out, I was pretty disappointed. Never thought that would happen. We probably ran 10 times with the same results till i gave up and just said "you're faster."
 

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you will want to play with modes 3 and 6

3 is red fuel qunatity
6 is timing for red circuit to activate

you want it to jump into red mode (from yellow) at approx 6500-7000 rpm and 3/4+ TPS

if the red blue or mode 6 is set to high it will not allow it to switch to that mode at all and can hang in the yellow which will make it run lean up top. the std settings i have for the hc3 posted should be safe and allow you to move it up some but not much and experiment with it. You just have to be careful you dont go to far if it gets set to high and doesnt allow it to jump to the red mode it wont run good up top and be flat.

dont really need a dyno imo just go out ride it with efi in sight so you can see it while your riding. do a pass and see what TPS and approx rpm the lights turn from yel-red probably in 3-4th gear under some load. try to target what i gave you above once its transfering from modes at that rpm/tps then try to add more fuel or less and see what happens just make sure its tranfering from yellow to red if the reds never show up you need to lower the red-blue. dont be scared to try to move the circuits like i said its not going to hurt anything if your doing it while testing

also check the other circuits as well you can move up or down mode 5 as well which will make 2nd mode (yellow) activate later or earlier so you will need to do some partial runs and see how the the yellow mode is working. The yellow mode with the HC3 settings is going to be very short it should hang out in the green for a good bit 2000rpm-5000rpm anything below 1/2 throttle then yellow will be 1/2-3/4 throttle 5-5500rpm-6500-7000rpm window depending on how the transfer are setup then jump to red at 3/4 to 100% throttle at about 7000rpm to revlimit
 
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