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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
i have 500$ to spends on mods for my xx its all stock and just wanted to here some opinions of what some good mods to start of with
 

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Tires, remove spark arrestor and put a different tip on, 13t sprocket and possibly a uni filter. I dont see a need for the big 3, I rode with a big 3 XX the other weekend and you coudln't even tell he had more power than I did. We ripped around a track and I was right with him the whole time. Just my opinion, I'm sure there are plenty of people who will disagree. haha. Even with these simple mods the machine hauls ass compared to stock, I'd eventually like to get the fuel programmer from ehs as well.:xx:
 

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Tires, remove spark arrestor and put a different tip on, 13t sprocket and possibly a uni filter. I dont see a need for the big 3, I rode with a big 3 XX the other weekend and you coudln't even tell he had more power than I did. We ripped around a track and I was right with him the whole time. Just my opinion, I'm sure there are plenty of people who will disagree. haha. Even with these simple mods the machine hauls ass compared to stock, I'd eventually like to get the fuel programmer from ehs as well.:xx:

I completely agree, fuel management is a must, but i started out with an exhaust tip and filter and it was a HUGE difference over stock...
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
thanks for the advise do you guys think a sonic raceing rear anti roll bar is worth 450$ it looks like it may help the front end push and body roll?
 

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uni filter, exhaust tip, 23" front tires, 13t sprocket, and let her rip! jus my .02
 

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IMO- Uni filter, 13T, 23" razr 2 fronts and 22" razr rears. The EHS/Barker big three made a very big difference on my bike, but with only $500 I would wait on a pipe and programmer. I love my Sonic and think it is worth every penny, but there will be more people that disagree with that than agree. With the Razrs and the Sonic, push and body roll are dramatically decreased and gone in most situations. Make sure that when you get feedback on any of the sway bar options that it is from someone who has run that type for a while. Also make sure that the sway bar feel is what you want. There are many who prefer the stock cornering characteristics and like to roll through the corners. There is a option that Kyle8ton is producing one that looks pretty sweet if adjustabilty isn't a concern.
 

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I am not going to get into an arguement over this. Your opinion is different than mine, I am not going to tell you that you are wrong. I would never flip my rear tires, but I am not going to make a negative comment on it.

If you have some serious seat time one one with and one without you might have a shot at convincing me.

But that is the great thing about this site, one bike and hundreds of different opinions!
 

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I am not going to get into an arguement over this. Your opinion is different than mine, I am not going to tell you that you are wrong. I would never flip my rear tires, but I am not going to make a negative comment on it.

If you have some serious seat time one one with and one without you might have a shot at convincing me.

But that is the great thing about this site, one bike and hundreds of different opinions!

i'm not arguing over the sway bar, just the cost...a bit cheeky aint it ?
 

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i'm not arguing over the sway bar, just the cost...a bit cheeky aint it ?
I agree that cost is a relative thing. It would pain me to spend that much for something aftermarket on my vehicle. But somehow, an ATV is different. It cured what bothered me the most about this bike, push and roll. So to me it was worth it.
 

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I agree that cost is a relative thing. It would pain me to spend that much for something aftermarket on my vehicle. But somehow, an ATV is different. It cured what bothered me the most about this bike, push and roll. So to me it was worth it.
ARE YOU STOCK WIDTH ?
 

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Different hubs and a rim offset that is more like a 400EX or 450R.

do you have 4/144 on the back still, i know baxter and others were seeing about different hubs fitting, i'd love to get 10" wheels to fit on there, i have 2 sets one with brans new geckos and one with a set of skat track haulers, plus a set of holeshots, i wish i could use them...I was kinda watching that post and waiting to see how they made out, but no word yet, I definately think i'm going to get some 4/110 hubs or something for the back becuase i already have wheels...
 

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If you go slip on go with fmf. that way later on you can buy the header and you will have a full exhuast. next i would go filter and you can get a uni cheap. I believe you can get a programmer for around 200 bucks or so but if you plan on future engine mods you might just want to save up and get a better big 3. in my opinion i would go tires 13t and tip.
 

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do you have 4/144 on the back still, i know baxter and others were seeing about different hubs fitting, i'd love to get 10" wheels to fit on there, i have 2 sets one with brans new geckos and one with a set of skat track haulers, plus a set of holeshots, i wish i could use them...I was kinda watching that post and waiting to see how they made out, but no word yet, I definately think i'm going to get some 4/110 hubs or something for the back becuase i already have wheels...
Check that post now.
 

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adjust the preload on you shocks. it's free and makes a huge improvement. 13 tooth sprocket, better grips will run about $35. i'd then do a slip on silencer and UNI filter, $250. finally CCP steering stabilizer, $170. under $500 and will give huge results.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 · (Edited)
i ordered maxxis rzr 23 fornts from chaparel for 60 each
and maxxis rzr 22 10 11 for 82 each
and got can am ds 450 shocks on ebay for 290 shiped

next i am going to get ehs filter lid jokers raceing has them $95
and a uni
 
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