[Sid]

All,
On the ATV Magazine-Open Roads Forum, one of the guys has posted many tutorials having to do with upgrades and regular maintenance issues for quads and motorcycles. He is called "princevaliant1975". I have enclosed a thread he submitted about "Reverse Bleeding Brakes" This is for motorcycles and quads. I think you'll find this interesting. I have never heard of this procedure. Please comment. By-the-way, I do have his permission to post this.
Sid

Note: When starting the videos, do not use the triangle in the middle of the screen. Use the triangle on the lower left of the screen otherwise you will have two audios playing at the same time.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lBk00597EyE


There is also on for Fuelcock (shutoff) replacement. (Vacuum type converted to standard on-off)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rDJZ15dBlfI


Note: When starting the videos, do not use the triangle in the middle of the screen. Use the triangle on the lower left of the screen otherwise you will have two audios playing at the same time.

 

[M_Quick]

Sweet, I've never seen back bleeding either. What size do you think the tubing is 1/4" Id. ?

 

[roadkill]

Excellent post. I never heard of bleeding brakes this way, but it makes sense.
Big time thanks!

roadkill

 

[GAZ69OK]

The reverse method works well!! I would recommend some kind of small hoes clamp to hold the tube onto the bleeder nipple. When you put pressure on the syringe plunger, the tube likes to jump off the nipple. If the tube comes off the nipple and the bleeder screw isn't closed.... air in the lines, and brake fluid all over your disk, wheels, tires, caliper, etc.

I found the best way (with dual lines) was to drain master cylinder, reverse bleed left line till no bubbles and MC is full, drain MC, reverse bleed right line till no bubbles and MC is full, drain MC. Reverse bleed left line, fill MC to 1/2 or 3/4, slowly pull plunger back out, drawing about 1/4 to 1/2 of the brake fluid out of the MC and back thru the lines. This should pull air from around the piston and caliper into your tube. Work the bubbles out of the tube, and reverse bleed again until MC is 1/2 to 3/4. Reverse bleed the right line till MC is full, then slowly pull the plunger back out, drawing the fluid from the MC thru the line and working the remaining air from the piston and caliper. Its kind of a slow, easy push/pull with the syringe plunger to work the last remaining air from the lines. *Push* *Pull* *Flick* *Flick* *Push* *Pull* *Flick* *Flick* When pulling the plunger back out, watch the fluid level in the MC. Do not let the fluid level get too low or you will pull air down thru the MC into your lines and you have to start over again.

I may not have explained it well enough, and it may not be the best approach, but it worked well for me.

If you know what you doing, take your time and be cautious of your fluid: its a 10-15 min job. If you have to repeat and repeat, it could take considerably longer.