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Discussion Starter #1
So I have about 30 hours total, I ride trails and 14 tooth.. need to clutch a lot in order not to stall..

That said, the clutch is now slipping. I tried adjusting the lever a bit and no luck. Can you believe this at all? I was told it is not covered under warranty but I seriously think this is bs... 30 hours should not be enough to wear a clutch out.

The tech said sometimes when a new clutch goes through excessive wear a "glaze" is formed.. something about not soaking up enough oil.. but my bike has been sitting for 5 months. Maybe it is ride time to heat up and soak in oil.

Also, one thing I can also do is switch gears without engaging the clutch. I never do this but still was very easy.

Am I driving this thing wrong or something? I really dont drive hard.. I have been in a lot of mud and engaged the clutch a lot, but no more than my last bike.


So, If I do need to replace the clutch and its not warrantied, what should I replace with so this NEVER happens again in 30 hours of use.

Also the tech said 5 hour job plus parts!!! way to expensive.. .I will have to dig in myself.

Help!
 

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You can buy a Matlock Racing clutch kit, we have been racing it for the last 5 races and we just did a 1000 mile 3 day rally race and had no problems at all. The stock clutch with our 64 HP motor would not last 200 miles. PM me and I will get you the price, it comes with plates, fibers, springs and oil recommendation.

As far as time goes it should take you less than an hour to put it in. We can change a clutch out at a race in less than five minutes.
 

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He's nuts 5 hrs is BS! The motor has a clutch cover U dont even have to take the whole side case off, DUMB TECH just wants ur money!!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
He's nuts 5 hrs is BS! The motor has a clutch cover U dont even have to take the whole side case off, DUMB TECH just wants ur money!!!!

so is it as easy as popping off the cover and replacing the plates?


Also, if anyone has the pdf of a shop manual that would be great. PM me if you have any info.
 

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It's even easier and quicker than that.......tip the quad on its side and you dont even have to drop the oil.

Linc
 

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Tiping the quad/bike on it's side is a race thing......for fast changes. If you have broken pieces of clutch you will obviously have a bit more cleaning up to do and have to drop the oil.

In long distance rallye racing we tape a clutch ring to the bottom of our seat. If we wreck the clutch out on stage you can tip the quad on its side, take the cover off and jam the extra clutch ring in therefor locking the clutch just to get to the end of the stage.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Fixed it myself. I had to seriously adjust the clutch at the lever and mostly the main bracket. Was very loose... So to all, make sure you keep an eye on it.

I was slipping and adjusted, went for ride and she pointed north.. I am happy once again ;-)
 

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Yay for happy endings!
 

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For those of you interested in a Matlock race clutch it is available through Alba Racing. Its the same cluch I designed for Wayne and the same clutch he races with today.
 

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You can buy a Matlock Racing clutch kit, we have been racing it for the last 5 races and we just did a 1000 mile 3 day rally race and had no problems at all. The stock clutch with our 64 HP motor would not last 200 miles. PM me and I will get you the price, it comes with plates, fibers, springs and oil recommendation.

As far as time goes it should take you less than an hour to put it in. We can change a clutch out at a race in less than five minutes.

Could we see the dyno run for the 64hp? I'd like to see the power curve.
 

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I know this is an old post but need some references. I am looking for this Honda 700xx clutch offered by mattlock/alba racing. I only see a 450 clutch listed on their site. I did email customer support to see if the one from the 450 would work. Because I am seeing the parts are the same. I had to send another email due to they were supposed to look into the information for me. Maybe you guys can shed some light on the subject for me.
 

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This is what I remember , seem to think it's a new set of steels and fibres which gets rid of the judder spring setup and stiffer set of springs.

Springs and friction plates are same as 450r. The steels are slightly thicker which intern makes the basket and hub wider.
 
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