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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
just wondering if any of you have had any brake fade? my front brakes get pretty mushy after about 30mins of hard riding.

i was thinking of trying the adjustable stock trx450r lever. you could increase the throw giving you more room before it bottoms out on your other fingers. knowing honda it has to work right?:rock:
 

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Honestly, my brakes work pretty good, have you checked your pads lately ? Scuzz said his pads were destroyed and wasnt squeaking or anything...

Also, stainless lines and racing compisition pads will prob help more than a lever IMO
 

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if the brakes are getting really spongy it could be due to a worn master cylinder.

noway man, you are probably boiling your brake fluid, i know alot about this because i drive like a retard...

if the master was bad it would stay spongy even when cold, if its only spongy when its hot, you are boiling your fluid i'll bet anything and when you boil fluid gases escape and the feeling of sponginess is the same like if you had air in your lines, get some cooler running race pads and performance brake fluid like dot 5.1 or something...

if it still acts up when its hot and you have performance pads and racing fluid in there, and no contaminants, i will sell my xx for rock bottom and never post on this forum again...
 

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anything you can do to make your brakes cooler will help, they actually make titanium shields that go between your pad and piston as well as actual brake coolers which carry heat out to an external heat sink...

this is why racecars have ducts and vents to keep cool air flowing over the brakes...
 

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i don't think it would be that from what hes saying though, if it was the master cylinder it would do it cold too...if he pumps it and they work fine sitting still after pumping repeatedly then only fade after they heat up, then work again when cold its almost definately going to be hes boiling the fluid...in other words, it would stay spongy or would get spongy just sitting there and pumping them, because that would mean the fluid is getting past the master cylinder check valve or piston

did you know brake fluid actually absorbs water to an extent ? Weird huh ? anywyas that could be the problem, but with an aftermarket pad that has like 25% the coeficient or friction of a stock pad, you will have alot less heat and changing brake fluid although i never do so i'm a damn hypocrit, should be regular scheduled maintenance, ive heard and read that ALOT...

i would cheak your pads, clean your pads, calipers and rotors, top off your fluid and bleed your brakes just in case there was some air in there, then if like i said they work if you sit still and pump them aboout 30 times but once you ride like the wind and brake hard they fade then go back again when cool, you are definately boiling or have contaminated fluid...

if they fade without a spongy pedal it usually meanse you are 'glazing' your pads or heating them up to the pont where they were formed at, in that case your lever will be stiff still, it will just fell like your brakes have oil on them or something...

belive me, i did my homework on at a young age, never had a problem on the dirtbikes, but when i got my first car and the brakes got spongy and started smoking, i knew i had to learn something, lol
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
im sure theyre getting hot. brake fade, just the materials/calipers/rotors/fluid getting hot and becoming less efficient.

i was just wondering if anyone had tried a different adjustable brake lever that you could get more push on the piston if the front master cylinder thats all whew~
 

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Hi scrawny this may sound crazy but I had a similar problem to what your describing I put a set of ASV F3 Holiday levers on and never had the problem again and I actually adjusted the brake lever closer to the grip for better feel and it has been spot on since may sound crazy but it fixed it. Mate I would start with the above then move on to what Superswire and Scuzz are talking about.

Regards Overlord
 

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Mine did the same , I was running braded lines and EBC pads with stock discs. I tried an aftermarket disc Arttrax (I think) and these helped big time. The discs were abot £30 a piece.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
thanks overlord, i figured the lever would help quite a bit, and as cheap as i am you can understand why i was thinking along those lines :D

cool bax, i never "loose" braking power (yet) but it does get soft. i would think if the lever doesnt do it the next step would be SS lines. what kind of hyrogliphics are you using for money?? i dont even have one of those symbols on my keyboard??:lmao: you can tell me to "pound" sand if you want:lol:
 

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thanks overlord, i figured the lever would help quite a bit, and as cheap as i am you can understand why i was thinking along those lines :D

cool bax, i never "loose" braking power (yet) but it does get soft. i would think if the lever doesnt do it the next step would be SS lines. what kind of hyrogliphics are you using for money?? i dont even have one of those symbols on my keyboard??:lmao: you can tell me to "pound" sand if you want:lol:
If it was not for the key next to it "$" ,the 700xx woulda cost twice as much , took twice as long and only be half the fun.:D
 
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