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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
Man, most of you guys got it for 2500? I knew I over paid for mine when I bought it earlier this year for 3600. But I really appreciate the link. If I can’t figure it out in my own and completely ruin it trying to fix it that’ll be what I have to get. Only thing I saw was a rebuilt motor for 2800, this is a way better buy.
 

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2,150 for motor isn't bad, but only 30 day warranty. Makes you wonder why he parted it out, and has no other 700xx parts listed! And you didn't even get one season out of your motor. So I'd roll the dice and try and fix your motor. Depending on what you replace inside the cost will be probably less than 1k. Making the $2800 rebuilt motor sound better than a oem was running good for $2150. But who knows how well of a job they did on the rebuild? Just my opinion, but I'd try to rebuild your own.
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
Yea, and I'm planning big upgrades if I rebuild it my own too. Gonna definitely rebuild the bottom end with the +3mm stroker and gonna go big bore kit as well since I'm already there. Change out the exhaust since my stock one is all old and rusted plus it'll be dumb to do engine work and not even change out the exhaust. Only thing I'm worried about now apart from rebuilding the engine is how to go about the fuel programmer. I have no idea how to set it right and I wont be going with the big 3 from EHS since I really like the HMF blackout exhaust. It's a better deal and looks better than getting the Barker's exhaust powder coated and ceramic coated from EHS.
Also, which fuel controller would you guys recommend? It seems like they're all the same. Or are there one's that do extra stuff that the others don't?
 

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I love the HMF black out exhaust too! As far as programmers go the PCV is a good choice. But quad would need tuned, either by adding the auto tune, or on a dyno, or d/ load and install a map from power commanders Web site.

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
I've been thinking PCV as well. You think it'll be okay to break in the engine without a tune until I can get it tuned professionally?
Oh and another thing, what's the best way to take off the spark plugs boot? It's in there tight and I don't wanna break the cable.
 

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The spark plug boot is a pain for me as well. It should be pretty easy to get a hold of once the tank and shield is removed. As far as the tune, I'd d/load one from the site. They have at least a couple with HMF pipes availible to pick from.
 

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The auto tune is worth it, IMO. For the price it is about what you could pay someone to put on a dyno and it will adjust itself every time you do a mod.

Just will need to find someone to install the bung on the header for the sensor.
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
What’s so different about the PCV compared to the other ones? Is it the only one that’s like that? How’s the installation on it? Seems like you need to splice it?
And when I took off the throttle body I noticed it was a little bit open, I’m guess that’s normally since the engine needs to breathe right?
Oh and I saw that if I get the PCV from fuelmoto.com, they’ll map it for me so that’s good.
 

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Pcv compared to a dobeck, you can get a full range tune/ with a dyno. Dialing in the air fuel ratio to a perfect mix, all the way through the rpm range of the quad. Vortex also makes a programmer, but I'm not familiar with them, other than they cost more. Pcv can also hold two maps, and you can install a switch, to toggle back and forth between the 2 loaded maps.

Random screen shot of tuning screen below.


As far as installation on a Pcv, yes you have to splice 1 wire. And the wire for the pcv is a lot shorter than the dobeck style controllers, so you have to leave the pcv ontop of the battery cover. With a dobeck you can put it to rear of seat, in the air box, or pretty much where ever you want. ? Fuelmoto will send it mapped for a stock trx700xx or will they remap it somehow to your mods? All Pcv for the Trx700xx will come with whats called a zero map, "for a stock quad".

Also not sure what you mean by throttle body open?
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
What I mean about fuelmoto mapping it is that you tell them the mods you have and they'll give you a map for what you have. And if I decide to add more parts, they offer unlimited maps. So I feel like that's a good way to go.
And what I mean by the throttle body is that it isn't fully closed, there's maybe like a millimeter left open. I'll take a pic when I get a chance. I'm almost done taking out the engine, just need to take out the oil tank. You were right about the spark plugs being a pain. Wasn't bad since I had it all taken apart but it would've sucked to do all that just for a spark plugs change. That also makes me wanna change out the spark plug too. Any suggestions? And thanks for the reply, I thought you gave up on me haha.
 

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Here's the plug I run.


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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
Okay cool, I’ll look into it. The damn NGK site is so bad, can’t get any info.
And here’s the gap I was talking about. You can see the light from the other side coming through on the left and right.
 

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Okay cool, I’ll look into it. The damn NGK site is so bad, can’t get any info.
And here’s the gap I was talking about. You can see the light from the other side coming through on the left and right.
i don't know what I'm looking at
 

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Here's a pic of where's broken, it's right by the water pump.
yep ,that's a broken case . that BTW is an expensive part
 

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Yeah the crank case covers are a little over $300 Did you split it open yet and see what failed yet?

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i was thinking 500.
 

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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
No, haven't gotten a chance to split it yet. I'm really worried that I'm not gonna put it back right and I'm just gonna ruin it after all the new parts...
 

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if in doubt , dont
 
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