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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have my Teixeira a-arms on order. I have a few questions regarding camber and toe in. First what should they be set at? With the camber will the angle be set so the distance between the tires is greatest at the top of the tires or bottom? I imagine one of those angle tools will come in handy but if not where should I measure?

I also just ordered a set of Elka stage 4 front shocks, new clearance from Elka, $1015. I'm waiting to hear if Wayne Matlock still has the rear shocks he listed for sale. I want a set of his revalved stage 4s.
 

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This is a good guideline.
http://www.lsracing.com/img/Guide_21.pdf

If you ordered the uppers,
Camber = 1 degree inwards
Caster = In the middle or position 3, this a safe starting point. Adjust once you have rode this setup.
Toe in = 6mm or 1/4"
I set these with no rider and the xx on the floor.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
This is a good guideline.
http://www.lsracing.com/img/Guide_21.pdf

If you ordered the uppers,
Camber = 1 degree inwards
Caster = In the middle or position 3, this a safe starting point. Adjust once you have rode this setup.
Toe in = 6mm or 1/4"
I set these with no rider and the xx on the floor.
How and where do you measure the toe in? Never mind it's in the link. I knew you'd come to the rescue Baxter.
 

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5 gallon buckets and string work good if you don't have a straight edge that long. Most 2wd quads you can measure center to center front and back of front tires and get it close pretty quick.
 

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5 gallon buckets and string work good if you don't have a straight edge that long. Most 2wd quads you can measure center to center front and back of front tires and get it close pretty quick.

My way , it runs true . Just incase the chassis maybe tweeked. I used use the front -back front wheel method but the 450r would get twitchy and would run with one wheel straight and one wheel toeing in alot. This method matches the front and rear to run straight. Also I strap the bars to the rear bumper. The stem can turn , when you adjust the tie rods. I adjust the toe alot for differant styles of racing and this is the quickest and a accurate way without using lasers.
Also the straight edge is a 6' spirit level , you can get them at most hardware stores and they don't cost alot. Just check there straight before you buy them. :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
this is the quickest and a accurate way without using lasers.
. :D
I actually have a cheap Black and Decker laser level I think I could make work. I'll set it directly behind the rear tires, true it up to the back rim and for the front just will need to hold the tape right in front of the laser. Now where the hell did I put that damn thing?
 

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My way , it runs true . Just incase the chassis maybe tweeked. I used use the front -back front wheel method but the 450r would get twitchy and would run with one wheel straight and one wheel toeing in alot. This method matches the front and rear to run straight. Also I strap the bars to the rear bumper. The stem can turn , when you adjust the tie rods. I adjust the toe alot for differant styles of racing and this is the quickest and a accurate way without using lasers.
Also the straight edge is a 6' spirit level , you can get them at most hardware stores and they don't cost alot. Just check there straight before you buy them. :D
That's why you use the string.:tup: Else you could be driving around crabbed up like you said.

Here, this will help u understand what I was meaning. He is using jack stands, but 5 gallon buckets work if you don't have stands.

http://forums.atvconnection.com/technical-how-articles/333186-how-set-wheel-alignment.html
 
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