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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just mocked up the adjustable rear upper A-Arms to fix the camber with the bike lowered. The rear has a 2 3/8" suspension drop (done with shock clevises). Stock, the bike has 1 deg negative camber, when I lowered it, it went to 1 deg. positive camber. With the new setup I will be able to adjust from 0 to negative six degrees.

The photo shows the difference. LHS was how the bike sat, RHS is set at -3 just to show the difference. I'll need to make up some bushings for the rod end to keep it from sliding back and forth on the bolt, and will likely replace the bolts with pins and a safety pin. The upper a-arm has little to no load on it, so should be able to just pull the pin, turn the rod end in or out, and put the pin back in.
 

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looks nice, any idea on what camber variations you are able to get? caus i worked out im after 8.5 degrees negative right rear, and 3.5 degrees positive left rear, when i do my rear arms
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
looks nice, any idea on what camber variations you are able to get? caus i worked out im after 8.5 degrees negative right rear, and 3.5 degrees positive left rear, when i do my rear arms
Wow, -8.5 to +3? flat track racing on dirt?

You're not limited by any type of bind- with the upper arm off, you can damn near fold the outer carrier onto the halfshaft. I was limited in that I used 10mm rod ends, so only 29mm worth of thread. It at the lowered height, every .050" of length of the arm was equal to 1" camber change. So I Just picked where to cut my arms and add the weld bungs to put me in the middle of my target. I have yet to check if there will be enough thread engagement to use the arm at stock height.

In hindsight, I should have used a much larger, female rod end, and had and RH/LH threaded adjuster between the rod end and the A-Arm, would have given a much larger range of adjustment.
 

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Wow, -8.5 to +3? flat track racing on dirt?

You're not limited by any type of bind- with the upper arm off, you can damn near fold the outer carrier onto the halfshaft. I was limited in that I used 10mm rod ends, so only 29mm worth of thread. It at the lowered height, every .050" of length of the arm was equal to 1" camber change. So I Just picked where to cut my arms and add the weld bungs to put me in the middle of my target. I have yet to check if there will be enough thread engagement to use the arm at stock height.

In hindsight, I should have used a much larger, female rod end, and had and RH/LH threaded adjuster between the rod end and the A-Arm, would have given a much larger range of adjustment.
The reason I'm after -8.5' right rear and +3.5' left rear is the speedway track I race on is a high banked dirt oval, so running that static camber will give me a true camber of about .5' true camber when I'm hard on it through the corner,

Sitting in the pits it's going to look like some kind of freak especially with -5' right front camber and +1.5' left front camber and 10mm toe out, but it doesn't have to look prity to work well,
 

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The reason I'm after -8.5' right rear and +3.5' left rear is the speedway track I race on is a high banked dirt oval, so running that static camber will give me a true camber of about .5' true camber when I'm hard on it through the corner,

Sitting in the pits it's going to look like some kind of freak especially with -5' right front camber and +1.5' left front camber and 10mm toe out, but it doesn't have to look prity to work well,
I need a vid of this race. Sounds way too cool not to.
 
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