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looks nice, any idea on what camber variations you are able to get? caus i worked out im after 8.5 degrees negative right rear, and 3.5 degrees positive left rear, when i do my rear arms
 

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Wow, -8.5 to +3? flat track racing on dirt?

You're not limited by any type of bind- with the upper arm off, you can damn near fold the outer carrier onto the halfshaft. I was limited in that I used 10mm rod ends, so only 29mm worth of thread. It at the lowered height, every .050" of length of the arm was equal to 1" camber change. So I Just picked where to cut my arms and add the weld bungs to put me in the middle of my target. I have yet to check if there will be enough thread engagement to use the arm at stock height.

In hindsight, I should have used a much larger, female rod end, and had and RH/LH threaded adjuster between the rod end and the A-Arm, would have given a much larger range of adjustment.
The reason I'm after -8.5' right rear and +3.5' left rear is the speedway track I race on is a high banked dirt oval, so running that static camber will give me a true camber of about .5' true camber when I'm hard on it through the corner,

Sitting in the pits it's going to look like some kind of freak especially with -5' right front camber and +1.5' left front camber and 10mm toe out, but it doesn't have to look prity to work well,
 
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