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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys I need HELP!

My Parts store is telling me that if I go with long snowmobile like spikes in the rear tire that I will not be able to turn.

He said spikes are for drag racing only and you can only go in a strait line. You have to stop in order to turn.

The Kold Kutter 1/2 inch screws do not dig in the ice enough for me. I need more traction. I am ready to do anything at this point. I will not be racing AMA or any other name. I will race or drag for fun and I like to venture out all over the ice and snow. Snowmobiles turn on the ice.

I think the parts guy is full of shit. Someone help me out.

I would like to put a bigger stud in the front for better traction when turning and 1 inch in the back for traction.

What am I getting myself into too? :confused:
 

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i would ask to see his studded 700xx, if he doesnt have one then id tell him to STFU and go get my spikes.
 

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In the other thread you said that the screws weren't gripping enough for you. How many studs per tire are you running? Did you tilt them at all? I'm asking because we both did tires at about the same time- I was actually shocked at how hard mine would hook. Any pics of the pattern? When you say it doesn't grip enough- what do you mean- what actually happens?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
I used the regular Kutter screws and I put 250 on a back tire. I did not put them on an angle. Maybe that is one of my problems. My tire would just spin in the ice until I got going. I just bought some Kanadian Kutters to use. I think they will work better.
I would think that I could grip enough to do a wheelie.

When on the lake the snow can be too deep for me to get tracktion.

Can I use the Kanadian Kutter in the front?

Here is a side picture of my tire...


Automotive tire Motor vehicle Vehicle Gas Automotive exterior
 

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The studs are only as good as the tire your putting them in! We ride snowmobile trails for 5-600 miles a year up here an... if you have stock tires you ain't hookin up even with 250 studs, an then they just rip out cuz the tires are too soft or too thin to use a long enough screw. ALL my buddies have ITP holeshots an run about 750 studs, I am putting on razs an I will have close 250 in each rear tire an about 100 in each front tire. Ya gotta have good rubber to start with for ice racing, or trail riding. Or there's what I've seen alot of people do is... taking the tapcons from the inside of the tire out, an put a nut on the outside, but ya need tubes in your tires to run that set up. ya gotta have a deeper lug tire to hook up unless your on glare ice.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
thanks for the link 08700xx.
Sure gives you a lot to think about.
 

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Thanks for the pic. Looks to me like you need more studs and to alter the pattern a little. There's actually not many screws at 250/tire, especially when they're in-line- the lead screw is shielding the screw behind from doing anything- so it's effectively like running 125 screws. You might want to try adding studs in the open areas of the lug (don't remove any to alter the pattern). I also wonder if the lug is so thin that it's deflecting and "folding" the stud over- possibly something that running a high air pressure may help. I'm by no means an expert, I'm learning as I go too, but at first blush I didn't think that the stock tires were very good candidates for studding because of the limited number of lugs, and the "pocket" that's designed into each lug.

I have 440 per tire in each rear BKT tire ("chunky" lugs) and they're all staggered- so the ice will see all of them. I would think that that is your main problem.

But even with my setup, if I'm on any kind of snow, they don't act much like a studded tire. I slip and slide on snow, the minute it gets on clear ice, it hooks like a mofo. I don't know what the answer is for snow covered/snow packed ice, or if there even is an answer- most likely pics would be better for that situation, but I can't say for sure. I'd imagine that if the pics are 1" long, and the snow pack is deeper than 1" they aren't going to do much. That is essentially why we slide on snow with 3/16" or 1/4" studs- it doesn't take much snow for the stud not to contact the ice.
 

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thanks for the link 08700xx.
Sure gives you a lot to think about.
No problem. A link is about the most help I can be in this thread, not much snow at my place lol. looks like a blast though, I hope to take my XX back to Illinois next time I go vist my family and get to enjoy some ice/snow riding.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I sure hate to buy new tires when the originals are still new. I will have to think about how much money I want to spend on studs and tires. I seems you get what you pay for. I guess I will start looking at some tires.
 

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winter is almost over. You need new summer tires no matter what- so I'd save my $$ for those. Since the you've already come this far, why not just throw more studs in what you have and up the air pressure so they're not so pliable and see if that helps? If it doesn't work, you can take the studs out and save them for a more suitable tire later if you want to.

Again, if you're after snow riding, this isn't the way to go anyways...
 

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anyone try studding stock front and rear dunlops with kold kutter 3/8 screws? i'm thinking of giving it a shot for some ice racing this year before getting some different dirt tires in the spring. worst case scenerio i'll throw some 1" spikes like that raptor and use if for trail riding in the winter. michigan has a buncha snow covered sandy trails.
 
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