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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I always ran this in other quads with no issue. Its wet clutch safe. I ask because I put this in when I bought the quad and it seems to clank into gear when shifting. All gears. Also noticed when coasting in any gear if I hammer the throttle it gets a gear lash feel. Again a clanking feel.

My chain is adjusted correct. Gonna check on the clutch adjustment, but I think its probably fine. Any thoughts?
 

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Not sure what the problem would be because that's all I run in mine and have had nothing but positive results. Really it feels a lot smoother when shifting. Did it do it before you switched?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I don't think it did. Hard to say cause I only rode it up and down an alley a few times then did the change. While shifting it could be a clutch issue, but doing it from a coast to hammering the throttle with out clutch action is kinda weird. I don't have any play in the rear end either.
 

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easystreet,
Did you drain the original oil from all three locations? Remote oil reservoir, the oil filter hosing and the crankcase. Riding "up and down the alley a few times" may not have put most of the oil into the major tank. If the two oils mixed I'm not sure what that could cause. JMHO.
Sid
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Yeah, I did all three and changed the filter. I will say that the oil I drained was black. Personally I have never ran oil more than about 5hrs on a sport quad. I know its obsessive, but I run these things hard. The original owner had an oil change at a supposed 20hrs. Gave me the reciept, but there is no hours or miles indicator on these so who knows. He said he thought it had another 20hrs on it after that. I'm a little concerned it may be the clutch. The guy was 60 years old and bought to ride with his buddies who had utility quads. They would go to places like Moab. He said it was too much machine for him and he had trouble with a clutch in the tough areas. He may of went through a lot of its life by not knowing what he was doing. I'm gonna pay close attention to clutch catch and release points and see if it needs adjustment.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I think its insane to not change the oil and filter on a brand new motor in the first 1/2 hour. Thats when your rings have seated and debris is created. 20hrs on first change? No way!
 

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I agree with you on the clutch may have an issue. From what you describe it sounds like the old man may have hurt it if he didn't shift properly or lack there of. Sounds like it may be slipping. Back to your original question, Mobil 1 is great oil and wouldn't hesitate to use it and I agree on not waiting 20 hrs. that's just insane. Good luck
 

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Mine clanks some times and i use mobile one synthetic oil. I think its done it on both my 700s since they were new. It usually does it when it hasn't warmed up long enough.
 

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I think its insane to not change the oil and filter on a brand new motor in the first 1/2 hour. Thats when your rings have seated and debris is created. 20hrs on first change? No way!
The break in oil the manufactures use is important to run in new engines for a certain amount of time. So if you drain it out and put in regular weight oil after 30mins of run time, I'd say that's doing way more harm than good.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Do you mean the assembly lube? I have rebuilt many motors and never heard of a specific break in motor oil. The assembly lube is used because its thicker and clings on to parts and won't run off with gravity. Its crucial I agree. Once your new motor is warmed up its no longer needed. It has done its job and the circulating motor oil is there to take over. Personally I still say get that oil changed quick.
 

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The break in oil the manufactures use is important to run in new engines for a certain amount of time. So if you drain it out and put in regular weight oil after 30mins of run time, I'd say that's doing way more harm than good.
You know the dealer actually puts the oil in the quad when they take it out of the crate. I bet money they just pull Honda oil off the shelf and pour it in, no break in oil there. I do the same thing with a new quad, half hour max and change the oil.

Both my 700XX's clank when shifting gears quite a bit, have done it since day one. I think the 700XX transmission is pretty lousy, just doesn't have a good "feel" to it.

Doug
 

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I was told at the dealer when I bought the bike that the oil should be run for 10 hours to break in the engine, then change the oil & filter. And these days there are specific break in oils for flat tappet camshafts. As many of the oils these days do not have zinc in them to allow proper break in and seating of the new components. I have built many high performance engines for cars running over 600HP and we always break in the engines with Joe Gibbs break In Oil. This will not work on our bikes as it would not be wet clutch safe but I would assume that the dealer has some similar oil for atv wet clutches for proper break in. I have only riden my new bike for 3 hours so far and I have already purchased a new Honda oil filter as well as Honda Synthetic HP4S 10w30. Hopefully this will allow for very smooth operation after break in. I still intend to wait until the recommended 10 hours before doing the change though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
4T has a high zinc level. There was a rider on another forum who was really into oil technologies and he would send in for oil analysis on all his used oils. He tried tons and 4T was ranked high in all the analysis breakdowns. I remember Yamalube was ranked pretty low. Lots of people would swear that Yamalube should be ran in your Yamaha motor. Tests prove otherwise.
 

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That is great to know, I will look for the Mobil oil than.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Amsoil is the best if you have access to it. 4T is easier to find.
 

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I run amsoil 0w-40 in mine my trans has always been kinda clanky especially when cold. ny non detergent oil is a good break in oil in my opinion but I broke in my motor with Honda gn4 ran it for about 5 hours before I changed it. Rings and valves don't seat very well in the first thirty minutes of riding they need several heat cycles and cool downs before they are properly seated
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Rings and valves don't seat very well in the first thirty minutes of riding they need several heat cycles and cool downs before they are properly seated
If you break in the motor the "controversial" or correct way, they seat within the first half hour of riding.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Found the link. Give it a read. I believe in this method and have been using it. NO issues with my motors. The key is making sure the motor is properly warmed up before you hammer the piss out of it!

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
 
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