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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Just a heads up, I went to take the 10 inch rims off the xx to reinstall the stockers and they were stuck on. The holes in the rim are barely big enough to get over the hub bolts and when I went to take them off after only about an hour ride time, the threads actually dug into the rim. Had to lube it up to get them off. Thankfully no damage to the threads. I wasn't happy with the overall quality when I got them. I know I can drill the holes out a little bit but I don't like being 50 inches wide in the rear anyway so I'll stick with the stockers for now. The stock rims have a steel ring around the hole to prevent it from imprinting. The itp is bare aluminum.
 

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Did you use the oem lug nuts? If so, did you flip them around so the flat portion was against the rim? Most aftermarket rims do not use a tapered lug nut, they need a flange nut. So if you installed the stock lugs with the tapered side towards the rim, that is not good and explains why you had a problem.

Doug
 

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I have same problems with the dwt wheels. And I did flip the lug nuts. I had to go as far as removing the hub assembly, and then beating it off the rim. I used a pvc pipe and BFH, took several swings. I'm planing on getting a step drill bit, and enlarging the hole before I re-install them. I thought mine stuck because I plasti-dipped the hubs awhile back. But when they came off, they did strip a ring or two of the lug threads...!
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Yea I reversed the oem lug nuts too. I only rode with them on for about an hour in total so I didn't have to beat it off with a hammer, just pulled and punched it by hand after I lubed it up with wd but the aluminum is all chewed up. Stupid design IMO, they should have some kind of steel collar around the holes like the oe rims do to prevent the steel threads from indenting.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Just so that it doesn't sound like I'm bashing the company, this is the first itp product I've ever had a problem with. I have 3 sets of ss rims for my 4x4s that have been great. They also have a lifetime warranty which is nice. I've never had a problem with an itp tire either. Usually made very well but their t-9 rims in my opinion are shabby
 

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I have this issue with regular DWT's and OMF's too. After having to bang a set off with a hammer I made sure to add a nice rubber mallet to all pit boxes.
 

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Yeah this situation could be a real pita during a race. A simple tire change taking 15 mins!
 

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I have DWT and ITP rims of all sizes for my T-rexx. Try using steel washers between the lug nuts and rims. It'll stop the hammering off the rims. :D
 

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Sounds like a good idea, thanks Baxter
I'll let you try this, let me know how it works. That is if you put your 10's back on. I still plan on the drill bit method. I know the washer would be easier, but I don't understand how the spacer would solve to zero clearance issue. Hell there hard to put on, let alone get off after torqued and road on. So opening them up would make them easy to put on and remove. And if I drill to big of a hole, I can always add the washer's anyways...
 

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What are you guys torquing your lugs to? I always use a torque wrench set to 47 ft-lbs, can't really say I have ever had a hard time removing any of my wheels from any of my quads. (95% of the sport quads use the same setup and I bet I own around 50 wheels.) If you over torque the lug nuts, they can squeeze the aluminum into the lugs themselves, hence the reason they are difficult to remove. I have noticed that some of my DWT wheels have little burrs around the holes. I always take a round file them to clean them up before use. I also have never used the stock lugs on any of my quads, I always replace them with flange nuts, figure the flange will distribute the force better.

I would be very cautious in drilling out the wheels. They should be a snug fit as that is what centers the wheel. Oversize holes could allow the wheel to shift around, could oblong the holes making thing worse.

Doug
 

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I'm sure I over torque mine by the recommended 47 ft lbs. But the 1st time I put them on, there was a lot less tolerance when sliding over the studs than the oem 11" wheels. And also the 1st time I road on them set at 55 lbs I had a couple lug nuts come loose after a few hours of riding. I don't see how a flat lug nut compressed would smash the rim, but maybe that is the deal.

Sounds like I need some new lug nuts, before I re-install thx Doug...
 

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The link you posted are the correct size and pitch, those will work.

Doug
 

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The link you posted are the correct size and pitch, those will work.

Doug
Thx, I was just going to take a hub to local place. But knowing the size will help for sure. The cheapest I see on eBay was $13.95 for 8, and Rocky Mountain would be $3.20 plus $7.00 shipping. I hope the Stealership has them at least for a buck each or less.
 

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Might be able to find them at a local hardware store. Nothing special about them, just a 10mm x 1.25 pitch flange nut.

Doug
 

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The washers help out with the stock nuts and stop the flaring over. Got a set of DWT .125, 8x6 with Kutters 18x8x8 . Built for an Apache 100 quad. So much fun and way too grip ! Still around 50" though.:D
 

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I bought the ITP T-9 GP (Grand Prix) wheels for the front. They have steel reinforcements like stock and they look pretty sturdy too.
 

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I'll let you try this, let me know how it works. That is if you put your 10's back on. I still plan on the drill bit method.

Drilled mine out today like 1/16". I didn't realize how think the .190 wheels were. The stepper bit worked, but I had to drill 1/2 way and then flip over and drill other side. Wheels go on easy now, I hope there easy to remove as well. I also used stainless washer's and purchased the 10 mm x 1.25 flange bolts. The flange didn't seam large enough to cover the damage from the reversed oem lug nuts, which is why I used washer's too.
 

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I have this issue with regular DWT's and OMF's too. After having to bang a set off with a hammer I made sure to add a nice rubber mallet to all pit boxes.
Why do you think dwt has this zero tolerance on the wheels? I hate to have to take a drill to brand new $140 wheels. But if the openings are barely large enough and I have to wiggle to work them on, they will get drilled out. Have you mentioned this issue to Bones? I know they don't make the DWT'S but he may have some insight on the situation.
 
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