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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
This is a tough one but I like the 14t in 1st,2nd and 3rd through the trees but running a stock motor and exhaust , 5th it seems too tall a gearing.Kinda want to run the 14t this year and add a lil more torque at the bottom end but be able to hit the rev limiter in 5th. I dont need a 70hp motor , just a lil tweeking.:D
Any Ideas ?
 

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Run 14T front and 38 rear sprockets, that should be inbetween just changing 13T and 14T front I think.
 

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I would say a cam and a +3 on the throttle body. From my research Web is the better cam but Hot Cams are cheaper. I know you ride a lot so having your bike down for the time it would take to get your throttle body done might not be an option for you, in that case you could do a CP 11:1 Piston and a cam.
 

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i did a stage 1 hotcam and a 11:1 piston, ill give you some feedback in bout a week.
 

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With out doing major motorwork, I would just say a cam could help you out. Either a webcam or hotcam, I prefore hotcam as you don't have any core charges plus it is cheaper, however webcam has different angles and the stages are completely different btwn the two. I have been using hotcams since 2000 in my 99 400ex, and in everything pretty much since then, and no complaints. The cam will be about the cheapest and most reliable thing you could do, however I dont know who or where you could find a program. But however, like 08700xx said, a new cp piston w/ the cam could be nice. Stage 1 or 2 at the most though w/ the cam.
 

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Full Exhaust, PC/Dobek, Air Filter & Stage one or two Cam.

If you go into the motor you can install that piston I gave you last year and run a stage three cam (Do you still have the piston?)
 

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From the research i've done and from talking to some of these guys. I think the best way to go would be having your head port and polished and maybe a stage 2 web cam. Thats something i might consider, but i really don't need anymore power.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
i did a stage 1 hotcam and a 11:1 piston, ill give you some feedback in bout a week.
Let me know how it goes. I am trying not to pull the motor apart as I think I have the same problems/symptons you have had .

Full Exhaust, PC/Dobek, Air Filter & Stage one or two Cam.

If you go into the motor you can install that piston I gave you last year and run a stage three cam (Do you still have the piston?)
Still got it but never fitted it, Had to many problems with the motor.
I think it has fried too many times(Bad ECM), I hoping I caught in time so the little end is ok. I am dreading taking the head off , but it has to come off before the season starts. I'll keep you posted. :D
 

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As the other guys mentioned porting the head is a great option, It's just expensive compared to the power you'll get from other bolt-ons.
 

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baxter, dont be afraid to pull it, what issues do you have? as long as it did run dry on oil you probably just have bad seals piston and rings.the cylinder is probably fine.mine just burned so much oil on a 19 mile ride that it ran the topend dry.if yours did that then you are just costing yourself more money the longer you wait.if you have engine noise ill bet money ts the timing chain.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
The engine isnt burning oil , So I guess its not as bad as youres was. Thinkin piston , rings, valve seals and cam chain .
I'll pull the motor outta the frame and whip the head off tomorrow morning
I heard about the Alba HD cam chain kit ,nice idea and worth saving for .
Are running the cam and piston with the stock exhaust ?
 

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im going to start it with the stock exhaust but it wont see any ride time until i get full exhaust on it, which i am ordering this friday.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Ok took the head and cylinder off. I would like some input on the pics and what to do next. Crank and conrod are fine but I feel this motor has been apart from the previous owner.

Light Automotive lighting Automotive engine gasket Auto part Metal

Automotive lighting Automotive tire Motor vehicle Gas Rim

Musical instrument Rim Automotive tire Bicycle part Automotive wheel system
The piston seems to have a friction coating. Is this a OEM piston , I thought OEM didn't come with this
Automotive tire Amber Automotive lighting Rim Alloy wheel
The scratches are scores around the cylinder and you can physically feel them by touch.

I would like some input from the guys who know motors. I know who you are and would like some help.
The engine oil ,engine filter and air filter were changed after every race (3 hours) I running stock setup with 250r Uni Filter and stock lid. Tried EHS Big 3 twice for about 8 hours and found I had a bad ECM after 12 hours ride time.
 

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700xx oem pistons come with friction coating
 

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doesnt look like that 450r filters working too good with all those scratches
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
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