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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
here are mine and some solutions i came up with after getting sick and tired of engine noise and tearing the whole motor apart.

problems:

clutch bearing going out(more than 1 time)

connecting rod small end wore out causing piston to walk and engine to smoke

i assume valve seals are leaking

timing tensioner went out

i believe the wrist pin failure was do to oiling loss because of a clogged oil screen, there are 2 or 3 in the engine that i am going to check today.


solutions:

for the tensioner i can easily make a stock tensioner into a manual one or the 2006 xr650r tensioner works too and are easily found on ebay.

for valve seals, order 2006 xr650r valve seals off of ebay, they are the same seal at a fraction of oem cost.

when the connecting rod is gone, have your local machine shop bore out the hole and install a 0.945 in. I.D. chevrolet bronze bushing in it instead of buying a $350 crank assembly, that way if it goes out again you can just change the bushing.

check all screens listed in the service manual to make sure they are not clogged.


honda offers a replacement clutch basket bearing for some reason so im going to try that.then i will move on to another option.
my solution to the clutch chattering problem, i plan to see if it is possible to use a xr650r clutch assembly since they do not have issues with clutch basket noise and our engines were designed based off of that motor except with a different rod length and piston bore.if i find someone willing to let me use thier xr650r clutch assembly then ill post up my findings.



post up your problems and solutions, i have done tons of research to find affordable upgraded fixes for my problems so hopefully this helps someone in the future.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
i hope nobody does because its a stressful, expensive, PITA process of repairing it.
 

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Just to help you out, somebody :)confused:) makes a conrod kit, can't remember who but i will find it .They also do valve stem seals.
And I beleive Wayne said you could you use the 650r clutch(?) but did not specify anymore.
 

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Should we start a sticky pole or something to keep track of how many end up with these problems? Mine has almost 200hrs and not a problem one. Yet.
 

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Great post Jarrod, I like the idea of repairing the con-rod.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Just to help you out, somebody :)confused:) makes a conrod kit, can't remember who but i will find it .They also do valve stem seals.
And I beleive Wayne said you could you use the 650r clutch(?) but did not specify anymore.

thanks for the info, that is why i started this thread, to put all findings in one location...hopefully he will chime in about the clutch because if it is true then that may be the route i am going.

im going to research the connecting rod, its $150 and if it does not have a bushing, the next time it goes out you have to spend another $150 to replace it,designing it like a car engine means you can spend $28 to have a new bushing pressed in, the origina;l cost to have the hole machined and the bushing pressed in, cut and chamfered is about $58, the bushing is $8 of that price

btw, it uses a connecting rod small end bushing for a Z06 LS6 corvette available from howards racing cams from summitracing.com
 

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my enigine sota (locked up) .... somethin with the decomp, it sorta got stuck..... runnin fine now. i just messed with it and i fixed it...somehow 0.0
 

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I have quite a bit of engine noise until I pull the clutch in. Is that a sign of the clutch basket or something going bad? Anyone else engine sorta noisy?
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I have quite a bit of engine noise until I pull the clutch in. Is that a sign of the clutch basket or something going bad? Anyone else engine sorta noisy?

you need the bearing upgrade and a new guide, depending on how bad the basket is you may need that too, the bearing and guide is about $25 from mrcycles.com
 

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I used mine as a submarine.

I took it in to get fixed for around $1100.

They had to bore out the cylinder and get me a new piston along with tearing the whole thing apart and cleaning all of the sand out.

Since that I have run across another problem. Just recently when it first started really getting cold, I cranked her up and it idled very high (seems to be extremely lean). I didn't have much time to mess with it that day and haven't been back home to figure it out yet. I have numerous possibilities that it could be from.

1. Tweak fuel controller for more gas intake due to cold weather
2. Fuel controller isn't working properly.
3. Throttle cable.
4. Fuel filter needs to be changed
5. Old fuel. I didn't use any fuel stabilizer and the gas could have started to break down but I highly doubt that this is the case since the gas was only a couple months old at the most (but gasoline does begin to breakdown after a month)

Hopefully I will make it home soon to play with it, get a new fuel filter, and maybe even some injector cleaner. Is injector cleaner safe to use in a quad? I'll update this as soon as I figure out what is going on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
seafoam is perfectly safe. and you will be suprised how much better itll run.
 

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you need the bearing upgrade and a new guide, depending on how bad the basket is you may need that too, the bearing and guide is about $25 from mrcycles.com
How do you check, and how big of a project is that?
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
pull the cover off and check the play on the basket, it shouldnt move too much but it will move a little.
 

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Cam chain tensioner failure after about 40 hours. Surprisingly enough, honda is actually paying for it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Cam chain tensioner failure after about 40 hours. Surprisingly enough, honda is actually paying for it.

check the chain, mine was probably bad at that point looking back on it.
 

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has honda addressed any of these problems after the warranty is out?
 

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has honda addressed any of these problems after the warranty is out?
Honda wont address most of this with a warranty :lmao: so I doubt they will do any work after the warranty is up.
 
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