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It is important when re sleeving the Honda cylinder to reinforce between the bore and the outter casting. From the factory there is no support between the bore and the outside perimeter of the cylinder. Most cylinders have some sort of bracing in the water jacket to improve it's structural integrity. We first mill pockets in the water jacket between the bore and the outside of the cylinder. We then press in cross drilled dowels for support. These dowels are cross drilled for water flow and welded at the top of the cylinder. We next bore out the cylinder and drop in the new 105mm sleeve. Then we bore and hone the cylinder to match our CP piston, and then lastly we deck the top of the cylinder to ensure a flat sealing surface for the head to mate to.

$629.99 with cylinder exchange, also includes 13:1 CP Piston
 

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nice......have u put it on a dyno with this set up..... will u offer a lower comp piston so it can run on pump gas
 

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I can see with the open deck that there is less strength but have you done any testing with those supports. Is it possible that with a hard session of riding that the motor would overheat since the coolant slows passing through the supports? I like what you're doing, this is awesome. I can't wait to see some dyno charts and field testing...
 

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bored out and 13:1 i wanna see some big dyno numbers here!!:yay:
 

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wow looks cool is he trying to sell this to us or is that what he paid for it??? do I need a pc5 to run this or can I run it stock tuning??
 

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I was thinkin someone was gonna have to do or make a wet sleeve for it but this is close enough. Like the B series Honda engines(and others), alot of shops wet sleeve the blocks.
 

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I can see with the open deck that there is less strength but have you done any testing with those supports. Is it possible that with a hard session of riding that the motor would overheat since the coolant slows passing through the supports? I like what you're doing, this is awesome. I can't wait to see some dyno charts and field testing...
The head isn't open as the cylinder is, there are only about six holes in the head the coolant flows into. I would like to see allot of hours in this particular design though. With the dowels welded and staggared unevenly stress fractures may accour.
 

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Whiteknuckle racing has been around for some time. They do some great work & have been building some bad @ss banshee motors for drags..Like up to 300 HP on alky!
 

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Welcome to the forum, we appreciate you doing this.

:D
Lets see some hours and power numbers. Then talk !:D
And gratefull that you build this nice bit of kit.
 

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I second Baxter...
 

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I had talked to the guys a few weeks ago at White Knuckle racing and the said they were at 65Hp but limited by a few set backs. I never received dyno sheets I requested though. Hopefully they'll post some more info on here on to enlighten a few more details of the build.
 

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There's not really enough deck height left to install a longer rod on the stock crank.
 

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I was going to send my crank out to Tim when my case was split but I didn't get enough return from the forum on my last venture to justify even more downtime on my bike. I did however get a big bore kit made. It's the same bore size as knuckles but slightly different design.
 
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