Snapped a drive shaft, help please
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258 Posts
how big was your screwdriver?! im thinking that the joint needs to be replaces as their is no way to repair that.
What side driveshaft was that? as one of the driveshafts is held in by a nut
What side driveshaft was that? as one of the driveshafts is held in by a nut
Well, ok maybe I didnt do it with a screwdriver. Might have been a pry bar but still lol. Ive used em to pop out many shafts on cars but for some reason this one didnt want to come out. (also yes its the one on the right by the brake disc).
I guess its a good thing I bought the whole left joint since that shaft isnt coming out. I still dont get why the hell it wasnt letting go. Especially with enough force being applied to do what I did.
Oh and cv shaft/drive shaft might as well be the same thing lol. They both transfer power
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258 Posts
the first pic wouldnt load last time i looked at it, so wasnt sure what side it was,
i would be guessing that the reason that it wouldnt come out was that it was corroded/seized in there
I find sometimes when pulling cv shafts out of larger cars/4x4 that if you use one prybar what happens sometimes is that you force the cv splines sideways against the housings, and this makes it harder if not impossible to get out unless you try using a pry bar on both sides
i have not tries to remove the cvs out of my 700xx so im not sure how easy it would be to pry both sides of it
i would be guessing that the reason that it wouldnt come out was that it was corroded/seized in there
I find sometimes when pulling cv shafts out of larger cars/4x4 that if you use one prybar what happens sometimes is that you force the cv splines sideways against the housings, and this makes it harder if not impossible to get out unless you try using a pry bar on both sides
i have not tries to remove the cvs out of my 700xx so im not sure how easy it would be to pry both sides of it
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455 Posts
On FWD cars I always just pull the passenger side first since it has the carrier bearing on it, and it just slips out easy. Then stick a punch through the transmission and knock the passenger side out from the inside. Easier than trying to pry on it.
Might have to do that on your XX if it's posisble.
Might have to do that on your XX if it's posisble.
Well the last owner had the boot tear and the idiot kept riding it instead of putting a new one on so the whole inside of the joint got filled with sand and such which is why I had to redo it. Im guessing it stopped the clip from moving so it could pop out. It was obvious he let this go for a while. I mean damn its 62 bucks for 2 boots and the grease and clamps....why spend thousands on a machine if you wont spend 62 bucks to keep it in good condition.
@92K1500
I have a whole new joint anyway(the one the sprocket is bolted to) so since this broke pretty clean I can get the center nut off and just slide the piece out. Just have to wait for the new right inner joint to arrive now ARG
@92K1500
I have a whole new joint anyway(the one the sprocket is bolted to) so since this broke pretty clean I can get the center nut off and just slide the piece out. Just have to wait for the new right inner joint to arrive now ARG
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309 Posts
This is similar to what I'm dealing with, mine is loose like the splines are worn, and I've tried everything to get it to pop out to inspect the splines. It seems to jam in there every time I pry on it, I've used tire irons, wrenches, pry bars, etc, to no avail. They all bend before the joint will budge. I sure don't want it to break like this one did...
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95 Posts
My Sportsman 700 has a similar set up in the rear where the inner CV joints go in the rear carrier. The quad is a 2002 and the joints had not been removed before and they where a pain to get out. I sprayed them with PB Blaster everyday for a week, I took a flat tapered chisel and worked my way around each joint until it started to pop out. After I got them out I cleaned everything up very well and put some anti-seize on the splines before I put it all back together. I am not sure if the surface is flat enough to use a chisel like I did but the PB Blaster was really the key for getting it to break loose.
The only suggestion I could make to anyone with this issue is removing the left one which would mean taking off the boot and the clip holding the bearings in the cup and pull it out. Then take a punch or something and place it on the end of the right cv axle shaft from inside the left side of the joint and trying to pop it out that way. Hopefully this doesnt sound confusing lol
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410 Posts
yeah its probably a good idea for everyone to pull thiers out and clean and grease the splines
my grizzly is like that on its drive shafts if you dont pull them out and grease them every once in a while it will eat the splines the cv shafts however are a bit different the inside is lubed from the diff. and the out side will seize in the wheel bearings
i feel ya on the boots I replaced one of mine well mustangGH did it for me I probabbly would have greased the splines then but he didnt even pull the axle out
I also feel for ya on the joints man iv replaced 3 whole axles on my grizzly not cheap fix
mine was more because of the HP of the bike being too much on an already strained axle and it sheered 3 times lol two of them were HD axles
my grizzly is like that on its drive shafts if you dont pull them out and grease them every once in a while it will eat the splines the cv shafts however are a bit different the inside is lubed from the diff. and the out side will seize in the wheel bearings
i feel ya on the boots I replaced one of mine well mustangGH did it for me I probabbly would have greased the splines then but he didnt even pull the axle out
I also feel for ya on the joints man iv replaced 3 whole axles on my grizzly not cheap fix
mine was more because of the HP of the bike being too much on an already strained axle and it sheered 3 times lol two of them were HD axles
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410 Posts
it should have a dust cover in the end to keep the dust and other contamanints out of the bearing grease so just punching trough will not work unless you plan on replacing that dust cover
I would think the tapered punch idea would work alot better just put it on jack stands so you can spin it freely and tap it lightly while someone turns the wheels or just spin a bit and hit it, spin some more and so on
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309 Posts
Dave,
Was the inner CV joint loose in the brake rotor hub like it wanted to come out, but wouldn't? Mine wobbles around and will slide out about 1/16 inch but will not budge beyond that.
Was the inner CV joint loose in the brake rotor hub like it wanted to come out, but wouldn't? Mine wobbles around and will slide out about 1/16 inch but will not budge beyond that.
This one was in there REALLY good. I didnt see it moving even a little until it broke.
Dave1980,
This has to be an April Fools joke. The 700XX has 4 wheel lug nuts not 5. Additionally, I see rusted steel not aluminum, everything pictured is way out of proportion for the 700XX. Kind of looks like you are working on a vintage GMC Truck. Ok, level with us.:funny:
Sid
This has to be an April Fools joke. The 700XX has 4 wheel lug nuts not 5. Additionally, I see rusted steel not aluminum, everything pictured is way out of proportion for the 700XX. Kind of looks like you are working on a vintage GMC Truck. Ok, level with us.:funny:
Sid
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3,184 Posts
Everything looks correct to me.
You sir are correct and man I wish it was a joke.... :steamed:
I cant complain too much though. Ive got $600 into parts and I paid 1200 for the atv so I guess im still doing well
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