Mine does it too, cold or while riding (stopping and starting) Sometimes I'll wonder if it is going to crank over at all (it acts like a hotstart on a small block chevy with high compression and the timing set too high, but it will always light off. Do you have a PCIII or something else?
Starting issues following big 3 install
After installing my slip-on, air filter and programmer, I have noticed that my XX "hesitates" a little bit when you start it, like it is laboring a bit to turn over. The battery has been hooked up to a tender all winter, and it's got plenty of juice. It always starts, but it just acts a little funny. It obviously did not do this before. Does anyone have any insight into what is going on here?
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with the juicbox..yes..PCIII..no.
Did you adjust the settings? I had moved mine up a bit and it started doing the same thing. I ended up putting them back to the stock HMF settings
I have the HMF controller, which is the same as the FMF and the Juice Box. From what I understand they are all made by Dobeck. I have it at the recommended settings from HMF.
I had the juicebox on mine and it just wasnt acting right. It would stutter on hills, didnt want to stay running after a cold start up, and would shut off on a wide open run. Messed with the settings and it didnt help much so I got the PCIII and a map from Bo and it is a totally different machine. Driveablity is awesome compared to the juicebox. It still wont cure the hard start though, if you look at the battery, it is pretty small, the Raptor 700 uses a bigger battery to crank it over and it has less compression than the XX, I know they all have decomp for starting but I do believe a bigger battery would help, the problem is the small area it has to go in.
Well, that is totally bullshit if you can't get them to run right after spending $2-$300 on an efi controller. I don't really have any interest in buying ANOTHER controller. There has to be some reason for the quad acting up like that. I never heard of anyone having these problems before I bought mine. This can't be an issue exclusive to the XX.
Mine seemd to run very good in the short time that I rode it though. I took it down some canal banks and a little trail area, and it ran really good. But I haven't rode it in my normal riding area yet. If it acts up while I'm riding, I will really be upset. The starting issue is irritating enough as it is.
Mine seemd to run very good in the short time that I rode it though. I took it down some canal banks and a little trail area, and it ran really good. But I haven't rode it in my normal riding area yet. If it acts up while I'm riding, I will really be upset. The starting issue is irritating enough as it is.
Mine actually had to warm up a bit before I could blip the throttle or it would die. When I had it set to high it would die when I would let off the throttle when riding hard in the trails. Overall I was not impressed with it. Can't wait to see how it runs with the additional mods and PCIII
Just lean out the lower end a bit and the starting problems will go away. The Busa was the same way but it was due to too much fuel at idle and the bike couldnt fire all of the fuel i was putting into the cylinder. The 700 works the same way. i leaned out the bottom end a bit and mine fires up on the first try every time, whether its hot or cold.
I'll try that Dave. Thanks for the tip. I'm just having flashbacks to my Raptor (03'), when I piped it and put on an open airbox. Those dual carbs were a mf'er to get tuned in right.
Been there done that with the Raptor (mine was an '01) its now in pieces. I ebay it a little bit at a time which is usually right after I trip over the parts or a bad memory of it comes up which is quite often. You can play with the programmer and see what you can get from it. I just didnt have any luck with it and that PCIII works so much better IMO.
I can only think of the limitations of it now knowing throttle position as well as the PCIII. I had the luxury of having both to try. I had the same shuddering issue that bdunkan described. Had I not had both though I would have tinkered with it until I got it to work like you are.
I can't wait to put it on the dyno just so I can know that everything's OK and set right. I could care less about the dyno numbers. (OK, well maybe a little)
I can't wait to put it on the dyno just so I can know that everything's OK and set right. I could care less about the dyno numbers. (OK, well maybe a little)
Mike over at HMF talked to the guys at Dobeck regarding the starting issue. I gave him a link to this thread, which he checked out and forwarded to Dobeck. THis is what he had to say:
"I looked over the thread and called the guys over at Dobeck. The fuel
map that the Dobeck uses will not be applied until at least 500 RPM and the
injectors reach a certain pulse width. When you start the engine and watch
the Dobeck. The LEDs will scroll back and fourth a few times and then stop
at a solid green number 1. It's not until the solid green #1 appears that
the map in the Dobeck takes over the factory map. They recommended that you
simply remove the (dobeck) ground wire from the neg. battery post and repeat
the starting procedure to see if anything changes. Keep in mind that cold
temperatures and oil viscosity will have an affect on cranking speed.
Please let me know what you find."
I then asked if I did disconnect the ground and that took care of it then what? He said if that was the case then then Dobeck would "address" the issue. I encourage any of you that have a Dobeck controller and are having any issues to contact who you got it from. I will keep you all posted on my findings.
"I looked over the thread and called the guys over at Dobeck. The fuel
map that the Dobeck uses will not be applied until at least 500 RPM and the
injectors reach a certain pulse width. When you start the engine and watch
the Dobeck. The LEDs will scroll back and fourth a few times and then stop
at a solid green number 1. It's not until the solid green #1 appears that
the map in the Dobeck takes over the factory map. They recommended that you
simply remove the (dobeck) ground wire from the neg. battery post and repeat
the starting procedure to see if anything changes. Keep in mind that cold
temperatures and oil viscosity will have an affect on cranking speed.
Please let me know what you find."
I then asked if I did disconnect the ground and that took care of it then what? He said if that was the case then then Dobeck would "address" the issue. I encourage any of you that have a Dobeck controller and are having any issues to contact who you got it from. I will keep you all posted on my findings.
Good to know if I run into any issues. I have about 10 hrs on mine since I did the HMF pipe, HMF dobeck system & velocity intake with EHS cover. No problems so far and I am pleased with the performace for the trail riding I do. Real easy bolt and go mods.
Not sure on how the Honda injection works on the program but on the Yamaha when its being turned over with the starter an aftermarket fuel controller will show the samething, scolling led until it fires up. That is start up fuel enrichment, its richer than the actual map itself.
I disconnected the ground on mine this weekend, and it appeared to start the same no matter if the Dobeck was connected or not. It seems to be starting fine now, so I don't get it. I'm about 3-4 weeks out from my first riding trip for the year, so we'll see how that goes.
On a side note, did anyone that installed a Velocity filter feel that the fit was awfully loose?
I guess we know why it comes with a stiffening ring, you really gotta clamp that sucker down TIGHT.
On a side note, did anyone that installed a Velocity filter feel that the fit was awfully loose?
I guess we know why it comes with a stiffening ring, you really gotta clamp that sucker down TIGHT.
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