Good to hear, glad you're happy with the results! :tup:
Two Brothers installed
Got my Two Brothers from UPS today. I was really impressed with the quality and construction of the two brothers M7 I put on my grizzly 700 I decided to try it out on the 700XX along with their Preprogrammed Juice box, Where on my Grizzly I run a PC3. with the tip and spark arrestor it has a nice deep tone and is not stupid loud prob around 95DB max.All I can say is wow . It made a Huge Difference in power! I slapped on the exhaust installed the P1 tip and made a few mods to run it along with the spark arrestor. For now until my bracket is made I sort of zip tied the Juice Box in place and went for a few rides. The quad pulls MUCH stronger on the bottom, mid and decent on top, really noticed the difference in response and just stupid bottom end 2nd and 3rd gear gains. This definitely shows the 700XX is corked up. Next up is opening up the air box, and dialing in the Air fuel ratio with my wide band.
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Glad to hear of another 2Bros install. I love the sound and power mine has. Just wait till ya play with the airbox and Juicebox a little. It really wakes the quad up.
Y'all are making me spend all my christmas money for other people on myself. Thank you for making me selfish. lol
Hard to beat the sound of two brothers. I cant weight to see how it responds to the air box mods. IF its anything close to just the slip on, HFS:rock:
Did you have an HMF?Hard to beat the sound of two brothers. I cant weight to see how it responds to the air box mods. IF its anything close to just the slip on, HFS:rock:
Glad to hear of another 2Bros install. I love the sound and power mine has. Just wait till ya play with the airbox and Juicebox a little. It really wakes the quad up.
Hey I have been playing with my juice box and was wondering if you had the same results. I found after I opened up my air box and covered the hole with a filter” large hole top of entire box” that the best settings to be the stock two brothers settings. I check it with my wide band and found the quad went super rich according to the wide band if I bumped the WOT fuel up one LED. Same with the rest of the fuel settings. I am running the P1 tip and the Spark arrestor. Just curious as to where you found the best setting to be? As soon as the motor cools I plan to pull the plug to check it out. All I can say is it’s a beast 3 gear wheelies are not a problem.
No I did not have the HMF. The way I have my two brothers set up IMO I think its sounds better than the HMF. Second issue I had with the HMF is rivets with make repacking a chore.Did you have an HMF?
I found nearly the same thing with mine. I have the Velocity filter and the airbox mod with the filter top and snorkle blocked off. I went one light up in mode 1 and down 1 light at WOT. The rest were left the same as stock. Post up your AF readings when you can and let us know what your plug looks like.Hey I have been playing with my juice box and was wondering if you had the same results. I found after I opened up my air box and covered the hole with a filter” large hole top of entire box” that the best settings to be the stock two brothers settings. I check it with my wide band and found the quad went super rich according to the wide band if I bumped the WOT fuel up one LED. Same with the rest of the fuel settings. I am running the P1 tip and the Spark arrestor. Just curious as to where you found the best setting to be? As soon as the motor cools I plan to pull the plug to check it out. All I can say is it’s a beast 3 gear wheelies are not a problem.
I was reading around 12.7WOT and around 12.0 to 11.5 while in Yellow/excel, Green/cruse looked to be rich. This was with all stock two brothers settings on the box. If I went up one LED it went really rich like 11.0 at WOT and would cut out just off the bottom with the green mode bumped up. So as of now the box is set just as two brothers set it up. Sounds like backing off of cruse/green mode may be right on with what you are saying and that would agree with what I was seeing on the wide band. If I remember right green mode was rich down low and maybe just a little rich in the higher RPM’s. Sounds like to me the stock air box may be a good design or Hondas EFI is really good at fuel compensation. I say this because when I first started the bike with the air lid mods the idle was a little higher than normal and the AFR was lean. The PCM quickly adjusted the idle RPM and AFR, not to confuse this with cold starting high idle. As of now the plug reading's look good nice med brown color.
What sensors other than the MAF does the bike have to adjust A/F readings?
What sensors other than the MAF does the bike have to adjust A/F readings?
That I am aware of the 700 has no MAF or Mass air flow sensor. It is an open loop system that usually means a MAP sensor and an IAT sensor. These if the system is good can detect changes but not nearly as good as a closed loop system with an O2 sensor. So I guess you could call it a speed density type of injection. I am not 100% sure of this on what Honda is calling their particular sensors but a MAF usually will sample intake flow rates and usually crosses the intake path to sample this accurately. Ex “small wires in the intake” So with that in mind from what I am seeing we have an Open loop SD system. It has to have some sort of MAP sensor to adjust to altitude, ETC that can compensate for minor changes. Obviously better than Yamahas EFI set up. My experience with Yamaha is they are supper lean out of the box and have little to no tolerances to changes in the intake path or exhaust. What I am getting at is it looks as though the air box flows decently well if the AFR is not moving much with the lid off or opened up via a cover or something. Or the Honda EFI with what few sensors it has is just that good.
Ahh.. forgot about MAP. MAP systems are actually a bit better than MAF style especially when modding.
Yes I agree they are simpler to adjust and dial in, at least in the automotive world. But the MAF is quicker at seeing flow changes but I don’t think any of the ATV’s have reached the level of MAF sensors yet. I looked through the parts fish and it wasn’t much help on locating where the MAP sensor could be. I did find the IAT though.Ahh.. forgot about MAP. MAP systems are actually a bit better than MAF style especially when modding.
I think I have found my first issue with the Juice box. You can give this a try and see if you get the same results. You need a long fast road, go out roll into the gas once you are in 5th throttle into it until you go into red mode hold it there for a while running the bike out on top of 5th. Once you have leveled off start easing of the throttle slowly and the bike will cutout/stall as soon as it goes into Yellow mode/excel. Not sure why the controller is going into yellow mode at these conditions "winding down and slowly closing the throttle" but it falls hard on its face. It will not do this if you shut the throttle or get back into it. But at a high speed slow down if you hit yellow and as long as it says in yellow it bogs super bad until you slow down quite a bit. I raised the Yellow mode sensitivity one LED "takes longer to go into Yellow mode" and this seemed to help and I notice no adverse effect while taking off under load. i will call two brothers to see what they say.
juice box mount
Here is a mount I made to hold my juice box controller. It puts in plane view for observation and quick adjustments. I did something like this on my grizzly but with my PC3 LCD display. If I go PC3 on my XX this will work great for a LCD display also. Lots of bending and tweaking to make it fit right and not put pressure on the plastic.
Here is a mount I made to hold my juice box controller. It puts in plane view for observation and quick adjustments. I did something like this on my grizzly but with my PC3 LCD display. If I go PC3 on my XX this will work great for a LCD display also. Lots of bending and tweaking to make it fit right and not put pressure on the plastic.
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NE updates on this?Once you have leveled off start easing of the throttle slowly and the bike will cutout/stall as soon as it goes into Yellow mode/excel. Not sure why the controller is going into yellow mode at these conditions "winding down and slowly closing the throttle" but it falls hard on its face. It will not do this if you shut the throttle or get back into it. But at a high speed slow down if you hit yellow and as long as it says in yellow it bogs super bad until you slow down quite a bit. I raised the Yellow mode sensitivity one LED "takes longer to go into Yellow mode" and this seemed to help and I notice no adverse effect while taking off under load. i will call two brothers to see what they say.
This is exactly what was happening to me before PCIII.
What do you guys mean when saying WOT? It appears you are talking about full throttle situations. Maybe "wound out tight"? 
Beat me to it. Quick draw McGraw!WOT = Wide Open Throttle
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