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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Zerks, Anyone done it?? *UPDATE* New option

After getting the quad in some serious mud a couple weeks ago, the XX now sounds like a 65 chevy pickup with squeaks from all 4 corners.
Now I don't have a problem pulling the a-arms off and taking stuff apart to grease them, but doing this more than a couple times would be a pain in the ass!!!
When I look at the microfische and from what I remember, there is room to have a grease zerk on the middle of every pivot joint on the a-arms, so 2 per a-arm, 16 total for the bike.

Any reason not to do this?

Any one done it yet so I don't have to be the guinea pig?
 

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Mine squeeks too if I don't get it clean enough. Chances are if you turn it up on the grab bar and pressure wash the underside real good it'll stop. I even take off the plastic skids and clean them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
That will get it cleaner, but it also might be forcing water in past the seals, that is most of the reason I want grease zerks, if that area is full of grease there is then no room for water to get in.
 

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Phucknuts has them but they tend to break since they are the external ones, if you had some that was flush with the metal then it should work. The reason they break is when the a-arm were fully extended they would contact the frame and break.

Send him a pm to see if they figured out a better way.
 

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im gona do it next year
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
After taking a closer look I see what you mean about them breaking off, so I found these.
http://www.saeproducts.com/flush-grease-fitting-ah18f.html
The only downside is I need 8 for the front and 16 for the rear and 2 for the new sway bar, and they are over 2 bucks a piece.
Plus they take a needle fitting to grease them.
I think I am gonna do it though, the squeaks are gonna drive me bananas!!

Phucknuts has them but they tend to break since they are the external ones, if you had some that was flush with the metal then it should work. The reason they break is when the a-arm were fully extended they would contact the frame and break.

Send him a pm to see if they figured out a better way.
 

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just watched video on youtube about houser a-arms. There's have zerks mounted on top of the a -arms. Full compression wouldn't hit them. Or you could bore the bolts out and put a hole in the side, tap end of bolt for zerk. Done that on other stuff before, just kep bore small.
 

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my houser arms have them and they are very nice just pump them up and get rid of the dirt and sand and no squeeks. also my buddy hawk who use to be a member put them on all four corners and has been working good for him. you might beable to find a thread on it if you search.
 

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Yeah, they should work, also try to get ones that are angled at about 45 degrees so it's easier to pop the grease gun in and out. I also remember on ebay there was a kit with a tap and 20 zerk fittings or so. If I find it I will let you know.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
just watched video on youtube about houser a-arms. There's have zerks mounted on top of the a -arms. Full compression wouldn't hit them. Or you could bore the bolts out and put a hole in the side, tap end of bolt for zerk. Done that on other stuff before, just kep bore small.
I can't believe I didn't think of that!!!!! That sounds like an awesome idea, drill like an 1/8 hole through the middle of the bolt and then one from top to bottom, and then tap the end of the bolt for a zerk! I think this will be the best way to accomplish what I want, I just have to talk my cousin at the machine shop into doing 24 bolts. I will also talk to him about how much drilling it could affect the bolts strength, but I believe it would be minimal. If this works, it would be pretty easy to sell a kit of all the suspension bolts with zerks already done. I will do some begging and see what I come up with!!
Jason
 

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My XX lives in the mud... and it squeaks and squawks more then a pet store!! :p I might do this too... For now I just ride a bit faster so I drown out the noise. haha
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I talked to my cousin the machinist tonight, and he said that you would have to get new bolts to drill and tap because the stock bolts have a cup in the head, so a bolt would be about 1.50, to drill the bolt would cost about 3-4 bucks a hole for the zerk, and a good zerk could cost 1.50.

Total it all up for 24 bolts and add a little money for the shop and equipment, it would be 200 bucks for greasable joints on the A-Arms.

I am curious if there is any interest from people to buy a kit to be able to grease the machine in a couple minutes vs. a couple hours?
Jason
 

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I talked to my cousin the machinist tonight, and he said that you would have to get new bolts to drill and tap because the stock bolts have a cup in the head, so a bolt would be about 1.50, to drill the bolt would cost about 3-4 bucks a hole for the zerk, and a good zerk could cost 1.50.

Total it all up for 24 bolts and add a little money for the shop and equipment, it would be 200 bucks for greasable joints on the A-Arms.

I am curious if there is any interest from people to buy a kit to be able to grease the machine in a couple minutes vs. a couple hours?
Jason
You would also need to drill the steel bushes .
 

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Anybody have any more updates on the grease zerk idea? I am thinking about attempting to put zerks in but would they have to be offset to one side or the other to avoid the center steel bushings? Then would the grease push past the center steel busings to grease the opposite side of where the zerk was installed? Any ideas?
 

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Thanks for the fiche. The bushing design on the 700xx fronts is a ball and socket design so I am still trying to come up with a plan.
 

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Yes, they are different. Not familiar with the term ball and socket in this application though. Guess I am not understanding your issue completely. I thought that one of the two would solve your problem. The goal is to get grease evenly distributed to the bearing in the middle right? Good luck!
 
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