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post #1 of 19 Old 01-14-2015, 12:47 PM Thread Starter
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Oil

So I have been pondering and thinking and reading and scratching my head and on and on about which oil Im going to use for my first oil change.

I spent some time on Bob the oil guys website (very interesting) http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...s.php?ubb=cfrm

Also I did some reading on Blackstone Lab (engine oil testing) http://www.blackstone-labs.com/

Ive actually learned quite a bit I didnt know before, and thought I'd pass it on.


For you guys that use Honda oil just move it along, there is nothing to see here. Im not trying to stir up a conversation about that. This is for people using other oil....

So I have personally been a Royal Purple Fan, I started using it in my GTO in 2005. So naturally I started looking into Max Cycle, Royal purples motorcycle/atv oil product. Now I buy RP regularly but the price of the Max cycle made me pucker a little. $17ish a qt from anyplace local, and about $12 online. So I thought I'd outsmart the system and look at possibly using reg RP and seeing if it would send the universe into chaos or not.

What I found was surprising. First off reg RP wont work. I figured it might have a moly prob so I called RP to find out. RP does not use that kind of moly in any of its products, but it doesnt have enough friction modifiers in its base product for the wear protection of a higher rpm machine like our quads. I'll talk more about that in a min. He said there HPS line would be pretty good though, that comes in at around $7.50 a qt online. Of course RP could only suggest that I use Max Cycle but pretty clearly reading between the lines he said HPS was fine.

The other thing I found interesting is that Blackstone testers (the people actually doing the test) All use dino oil, typically like a walmart or oreillys' type brand. They dont seem to think it much matters. Just stick with the manufacturers interval.
That kinda blew me away, they do about 200 samples a day.......

The last thing is the seal on the back of oil from the API has changed. The newer standard makes it friendlier the the catalytic conv on your car, at the expense of the friction modifiers in the oil (more wear on the engine)

I thought some of that was interesting, lets see how many people just tell me to use Ams...
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post #2 of 19 Old 01-14-2015, 04:03 PM

 
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Originally Posted by Scallywag View Post

They dont seem to think it much matters. Just stick with the manufacturers interval.
That kinda blew me away, they do about 200 samples a day.......
IDK about sticking to the manufactures intervals, imo that is way to long to go before changing oil. Especially since Honda uses the same recommendations for sport quad's & utility quads. On a utility quad putting around the farm, or going to check the mail, I can see 100 hours or 1yr but not on a high revving sport quad. And not even on a utility if your riding in water and mud, and running the piss out of it, or plowing ect.

I have tried a few types of synthetics, and always changed my oil when ever the air filter got a little dirty. Even though I change mine frequently the piston still let go. So maybe I was just wasting time and oil.

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post #3 of 19 Old 01-14-2015, 11:27 PM
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I agree with Mquick. I change the oil and filter between 5-10 hours of ride time along with an air filter cleaning on the XX's and use Honda HP-4s synthetic oil. I do think that any of the name brand oils will be fine as long as they meet the requirements but since the xx is a hot runner, I prefer synthetic oil to help cool it down a little bit.
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post #4 of 19 Old 01-15-2015, 07:33 AM Thread Starter
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Sticking to the factory interval was Blackstone labs, I included that more because they use regular oil and pretty much what ever brand is cheapest. The interval was specifically talking about cars.

I still think that people get a little carried away with oil change intervals with quads as well. I come from boat people, we changed the oil twice a year. Beginning of the season and half way through.

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post #5 of 19 Old 01-15-2015, 07:37 AM Thread Starter
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Jmm I feel the same way about the synthetics. My whole goal was to find a quality oil that met the needs of the machine, that was under $10. Had I not I would have probably gone with Amsoil. They are clearly a solid oil and I can get them for about $12 a qt.

However I feel like the HPS RP is a good fit. It is a good quality base stock, with a good additive package that is centered around reducing friction in high horsepower street cars.

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post #6 of 19 Old 01-15-2015, 06:03 PM
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I know I probably over change the oil but I only end up getting 20-30 hours on each xx per year and since I ride them year round, I figure 2-3 oil changes a year is justified. I use the Hp4s because it's semi affordable (9 bucks a QT) and it works in every 4 stroke ATV/Dirtbike I have. I've always been a fan of RP as well though, it's what I use in my cars.

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post #7 of 19 Old 01-15-2015, 06:22 PM
 
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Change my oil after every ride. Could be a 8 hour XC , or a weekend of beachcross or a 2 hour extreme xc . Found Bel Ray mineral to work better. It seems to help the clutch.

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post #8 of 19 Old 01-15-2015, 09:30 PM Thread Starter
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Baxter, Im guessing you demand a little more from yours than I do on mine when I ride
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post #9 of 19 Old 01-17-2015, 10:38 PM
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I use Honda GN-4 and change the oil and filter in the spring before I ride, oil and filter mid summer, and just the oil in the fall for winter storage. The owners manual says to do oil change every 100 hrs so I think it should be good. I could see changing the oil more often if you do competitions or if you have engine mods. Now on my 1983 Honda XL100 I change the oil every couple years and it still runs like a top!


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post #10 of 19 Old 01-18-2015, 12:27 PM Thread Starter
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Charger, thats about the same changing interval that I was thinking of.
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