Broken crankcase, can I fix it myself? - Page 9 - Club700XX - Honda TRX700XX Forum
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post #81 of 151 Old 01-23-2018, 01:52 PM

 
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Originally Posted by Kubi07 View Post
. I知 gonna be getting the whole bottom end rebuild kit which comes with bearings. Or I知 I wrong?
Best bet is to call and ask. But here's what I found it don't come with.


Note Does not include mechanical water pump seal, transmission bearings or countershaft bearings.

#1 2008 Honda Trx700xx HMF Performance Exhaust, PCV, Stroked 710cc, 10.5:1 Wiseco Piston, Frt Elka Stage 4's, Fox Podium X rear's, EHS Lid, L8ton 11/16" sway bar, DG 6 Pack Rack, PRM Desert II Bumper & Front Skids.
#2 2008 Trx700xx AMR Reaper, Ehs Big 3, P/P head, Xcalibur Cam, Hard Welded Rockers, +1 In/Ex Valves, +3 Throttle body, 11:1 CP Piston, Elka Stage 3 Legacy Shocks, L8ton 11/16th Sway Bar, PRM Front Skids, Desert II Bumper & Rear Utility Rack.


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post #82 of 151 Old 01-24-2018, 06:07 PM Thread Starter
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Got the crank out with some heat.
You think it's necessary to get new bearings though? The ones that are there look normal.
Also, just checked one of my valve guides and it seems kinda cracked. What's a good and easy way of taking them out without any special tools? Thanks.
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post #83 of 151 Old 01-24-2018, 06:41 PM

 
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Originally Posted by Kubi07 View Post
Got the crank out with some heat.
You think it's necessary to get new bearings though? The ones that are there look normal.
Also, just checked one of my valve guides and it seems kinda cracked. What's a good and easy way of taking them out without any special tools? Thanks.
9-16 in the service manual. If married do this when your wife isn't home, or if you live with parents do it when there gone, lol.

turn oven to 275 and place head inside for around 10 mins or so. Says to use a valve guide driver, but you can use anything from a piece of steel, allen wrench, or socket and extension that you don't mind beating on. If you have the new guides put them in the freezer while doing this. before messing with this, check your head to make sure it's not warped. This info is 9-14 in service manual.

#1 2008 Honda Trx700xx HMF Performance Exhaust, PCV, Stroked 710cc, 10.5:1 Wiseco Piston, Frt Elka Stage 4's, Fox Podium X rear's, EHS Lid, L8ton 11/16" sway bar, DG 6 Pack Rack, PRM Desert II Bumper & Front Skids.
#2 2008 Trx700xx AMR Reaper, Ehs Big 3, P/P head, Xcalibur Cam, Hard Welded Rockers, +1 In/Ex Valves, +3 Throttle body, 11:1 CP Piston, Elka Stage 3 Legacy Shocks, L8ton 11/16th Sway Bar, PRM Front Skids, Desert II Bumper & Rear Utility Rack.


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post #84 of 151 Old 01-24-2018, 06:43 PM

 
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As for the bearings, the kit said it comes with them. But if you can't get them out, CLEAN them several times.

#1 2008 Honda Trx700xx HMF Performance Exhaust, PCV, Stroked 710cc, 10.5:1 Wiseco Piston, Frt Elka Stage 4's, Fox Podium X rear's, EHS Lid, L8ton 11/16" sway bar, DG 6 Pack Rack, PRM Desert II Bumper & Front Skids.
#2 2008 Trx700xx AMR Reaper, Ehs Big 3, P/P head, Xcalibur Cam, Hard Welded Rockers, +1 In/Ex Valves, +3 Throttle body, 11:1 CP Piston, Elka Stage 3 Legacy Shocks, L8ton 11/16th Sway Bar, PRM Front Skids, Desert II Bumper & Rear Utility Rack.


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post #85 of 151 Old 01-24-2018, 07:20 PM Thread Starter
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I have a heat gun that gets pretty hot, that's what I used to get the crank out.
When installing new guides, how far deep am I supposed to go? I really hope the head isn't warped, that's like another 500$...
And as for the bearings, I'll clean them with brake cleaner, that thing works wonders. Then I'll let it sit in new engine oil. What do you think?
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post #86 of 151 Old 01-25-2018, 07:41 AM
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new bearings and cam chain

751 ,barker pipe,290 Web cam,+3 stroker,TB bored to 46.8 and moved back from head 1 inch,+3 big bore , +1 intake valves, Hard Welded Rockers,KW springs, ported, clutch mod , air box removed ,Cat oil mod, dynojet commander V w/auto tune , lowered rear end , TRX450R front shocks ,
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post #87 of 151 Old 01-25-2018, 11:37 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by cataway View Post
new bearings and cam chain
All new bearings or just the more important ones? And I知 getting a new chain for sure, I had to break it in order to get it off the cam.
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post #88 of 151 Old 01-25-2018, 01:57 PM

 
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Originally Posted by Kubi07 View Post
I have a heat gun that gets pretty hot, that's what I used to get the crank out.
When installing new guides, how far deep am I supposed to go? I really hope the head isn't warped, that's like another 500$...
And as for the bearings, I'll clean them with brake cleaner, that thing works wonders. Then I'll let it sit in new engine oil. What do you think?

I'd steer clear of the use of a heat gun on the head. Read over the manual, and you'll see how easy it is the check the head for warping. Also you will also see not to heat the head over 300f. A oven is a controlled heat source, and will bring the entire head to the same temp. A heat gun is directional and not controlled.

#1 2008 Honda Trx700xx HMF Performance Exhaust, PCV, Stroked 710cc, 10.5:1 Wiseco Piston, Frt Elka Stage 4's, Fox Podium X rear's, EHS Lid, L8ton 11/16" sway bar, DG 6 Pack Rack, PRM Desert II Bumper & Front Skids.
#2 2008 Trx700xx AMR Reaper, Ehs Big 3, P/P head, Xcalibur Cam, Hard Welded Rockers, +1 In/Ex Valves, +3 Throttle body, 11:1 CP Piston, Elka Stage 3 Legacy Shocks, L8ton 11/16th Sway Bar, PRM Front Skids, Desert II Bumper & Rear Utility Rack.


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post #89 of 151 Old 01-25-2018, 04:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Kubi07 View Post
All new bearings or just the more important ones? And I’m getting a new chain for sure, I had to break it in order to get it off the cam.
new crank bearings .
i don't blame you for cutting the cam chain . i have all ways said the easiest way to get it off was to cut it . how ever the chain is a part that go's back on early in assembly. don't cut the new one !!

751 ,barker pipe,290 Web cam,+3 stroker,TB bored to 46.8 and moved back from head 1 inch,+3 big bore , +1 intake valves, Hard Welded Rockers,KW springs, ported, clutch mod , air box removed ,Cat oil mod, dynojet commander V w/auto tune , lowered rear end , TRX450R front shocks ,

Last edited by cataway; 01-25-2018 at 04:48 PM.
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post #90 of 151 Old 01-25-2018, 07:15 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by M_Quick View Post
I'd steer clear of the use of a heat gun on the head. Read over the manual, and you'll see how easy it is the check the head for warping. Also you will also see not to heat the head over 300f. A oven is a controlled heat source, and will bring the entire head to the same temp. A heat gun is directional and not controlled.
I've checked for warpage from the manual and it's good. I've tried with the heat gun and the thing still wouldn't budge. I managed to get it out after drilling it and then finally bashing it out. And you're right, I don't wanna crack the head or something while using the heat gun, I'll try the oven. Setting the oven to 300f should be fine right? And for how long should I leave it in there for?
Just hope it isn't as hard putting the new ones back on.

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Originally Posted by cataway View Post
new crank bearings .
i don't blame you for cutting the cam chain . i have all ways said the easiest way to get it off was to cut it . how ever the chain is a part that go's back on early in assembly. don't cut the new one !!
How would I go about putting it on while reassembling? Don't wanna get to the point that I have to cut it again lol.
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