Motor blew up, top end rebuild! - Page 3 - Club700XX - Honda TRX700XX Forum
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post #21 of 41 Old 08-20-2018, 06:28 PM

 
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Originally Posted by rebeljake69 View Post
I already know i'm going to get 2 new sprockets both the front and the back ones to increase overall speed, but still try to keep my power down low.

This will be hard to achieve, as one will cancel out the other. I'd personally stay away from the 13t front sprocket. I have a 14 one my original and a 15 on the other. With the added mods they both pull really well down low.

#1 2008 Honda Trx700xx HMF Performance Exhaust, PCV, Stroked 710cc, 10.5:1 Wiseco Piston, Frt Elka Stage 4's, Fox Podium X rear's, EHS Lid, L8ton 11/16" sway bar, DG 6 Pack Rack, PRM Desert II Bumper & Front Skids.
#2 2008 Trx700xx AMR Reaper, Ehs Big 3, P/P head, Xcalibur Cam, Hard Welded Rockers, +1 In/Ex Valves, +3 Throttle body, 11:1 CP Piston, Elka Stage 3 Legacy Shocks, L8ton 11/16th Sway Bar, PRM Front Skids, Desert II Bumper & Rear Utility Rack.


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post #22 of 41 Old 08-21-2018, 12:00 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by M_Quick View Post
This will be hard to achieve, as one will cancel out the other. I'd personally stay away from the 13t front sprocket. I have a 14 one my original and a 15 on the other. With the added mods they both pull really well down low.
I think mine now has a 14t up front and it has a lot of power down low but only get up to about 65 before topping out and feeling like i'm pushing it too hard. I'll probably keep that one but my back is eaten up from wear and tear so i'll need a new one of those before too long.
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post #23 of 41 Old 08-21-2018, 05:35 AM

 
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Originally Posted by rebeljake69 View Post
but only get up to about 65 before topping out
Sounds like you had a issue before. I'm like 225 lbs on a good day without gear on, and I've had both of mine over 80mph.

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#1 2008 Honda Trx700xx HMF Performance Exhaust, PCV, Stroked 710cc, 10.5:1 Wiseco Piston, Frt Elka Stage 4's, Fox Podium X rear's, EHS Lid, L8ton 11/16" sway bar, DG 6 Pack Rack, PRM Desert II Bumper & Front Skids.
#2 2008 Trx700xx AMR Reaper, Ehs Big 3, P/P head, Xcalibur Cam, Hard Welded Rockers, +1 In/Ex Valves, +3 Throttle body, 11:1 CP Piston, Elka Stage 3 Legacy Shocks, L8ton 11/16th Sway Bar, PRM Front Skids, Desert II Bumper & Rear Utility Rack.


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post #24 of 41 Old 08-22-2018, 10:10 AM
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Hey M_Quick, did you have to shave the chain guard to get the 15t in or was it not necessary?
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post #25 of 41 Old 08-22-2018, 03:26 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by M_Quick View Post
Sounds like you had a issue before. I'm like 225 lbs on a good day without gear on, and I've had both of mine over 80mph.

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Yeah, I weighed around 150 at the time it was running so definitely something wrong, I'm just not sure what it could be.
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post #26 of 41 Old 08-22-2018, 04:19 PM

 
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Hey M_Quick, did you have to shave the chain guard to get the 15t in or was it not necessary?
I did grind on the case saver, for extra clearance. It did go on without grinding, but was really close to touching, so I opened it up a quarter inch or so. I'm not sure if it was necessary or not, but I sure felt better about doing it, than I would of had I not.

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#1 2008 Honda Trx700xx HMF Performance Exhaust, PCV, Stroked 710cc, 10.5:1 Wiseco Piston, Frt Elka Stage 4's, Fox Podium X rear's, EHS Lid, L8ton 11/16" sway bar, DG 6 Pack Rack, PRM Desert II Bumper & Front Skids.
#2 2008 Trx700xx AMR Reaper, Ehs Big 3, P/P head, Xcalibur Cam, Hard Welded Rockers, +1 In/Ex Valves, +3 Throttle body, 11:1 CP Piston, Elka Stage 3 Legacy Shocks, L8ton 11/16th Sway Bar, PRM Front Skids, Desert II Bumper & Rear Utility Rack.


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post #27 of 41 Old 08-23-2018, 08:14 PM
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Glad to see a fresh thread and im not the only guy with one left. Ive been having upper end issues and the guy at Duncan basically told go for the gusto or dont bother and stay stock I loved this thing for the 10yrs ive owned it but this builder has really just worn me out with problems. Most scary thing about the lower or anything cool is they never post again after they start the build so you never know if it worked out or wasted money. Good luck and let us know how it goes
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post #28 of 41 Old 08-23-2018, 10:01 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by hairtrigger0299 View Post
Glad to see a fresh thread and im not the only guy with one left. Ive been having upper end issues and the guy at Duncan basically told go for the gusto or dont bother and stay stock I loved this thing for the 10yrs ive owned it but this builder has really just worn me out with problems. Most scary thing about the lower or anything cool is they never post again after they start the build so you never know if it worked out or wasted money. Good luck and let us know how it goes
I know, I tried to do what I like in posts but don't see very much. Be very specific with my problems, post too many pictures, and explain the end goal so if anyone with similar problems or ideas then they can learn a little bit from my experience before they start on theirs. I am waiting until at least tomorrow to buy any parts to kind of finalize my research and see if a big bore kit is worth the extra money. I probably will end up getting it, just want to be sure before a big purchase happens. But i'll be sure to keep everyone posted!
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post #29 of 41 Old 08-26-2018, 06:45 PM Thread Starter
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*** UPDATE ***

Finally back out there and got the valves out and to what M_Quick was probably trying to get me to check, 3 of the 4 valve guides were cracked and 2 of my valves were barely bent. I'm not sure how bent they need to be to be unusable but i'm sure that any bend will cause problems. So I'll probably need to be looking at getting all new valves and new guides? I'm not sure what's it's called but the section of the motor where the valves are located. I tried my best to show the valves and guides in the pictures attached to this. As far as cracking the motor open, it has came to be impossible for me to do it by myself with given I don't have air tools yet to help me. I seemed to get everything I need to off except the nut holding the clutch on? It's behind the 6 spring loaded bolts and spins whenever the motor doesn't. I've tried putting it into gear and I don't know. I'm sure i'll figure something else out or one or the people reading this will have a better idea than me, but as of right now, the motor is still together and I have no idea how to get it apart. I just look for something that may be holding it and try to take it off. Doesn't seem to be working so far sadly.. Haha Any ideas would be very very much appreciated!
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post #30 of 41 Old 08-27-2018, 05:49 AM
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That part with the valves is called the cylinder head, I suggest you take it to a shop to get the new valves installed. It's kinda hard to do on your own. And as for that part spinning is because you need to get a tool called the clutch holder to keep it from spinning as you unbolt it. Do a quick Google search for trx700 clutch holder and you'll see what you need.
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