Motor blew up, top end rebuild! - Page 4 - Club700XX - Honda TRX700XX Forum
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post #31 of 46 Old 08-29-2018, 03:56 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Kubi07 View Post
That part with the valves is called the cylinder head, I suggest you take it to a shop to get the new valves installed. It's kinda hard to do on your own. And as for that part spinning is because you need to get a tool called the clutch holder to keep it from spinning as you unbolt it. Do a quick Google search for trx700 clutch holder and you'll see what you need.
Okay, I plan to take the cylinder head to Southern Honda Powersports whenever I go back to my hometown so they could see what one will cost and see about the valves and stuff, as for the part, I ordered it and it should be here tomorrow. Once I get that, I shall attempt to split the motor yet again and hopefully have more luck!
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post #32 of 46 Old 08-30-2018, 07:58 PM Thread Starter
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Finally got the motor split using that clutch holder. Thank you Kubi! figured out that i'm really glad i split the motor because during the slow process of splitting them apart, sooooo much metal came out of where all of the gears are and lodged into places that i'd never get out had i not split the motor. My garage is the messiest it will probably ever be with everything thrown around and parts everywhere. Looking at everything on the floor, it's so intimidating thinking about putting it back together. I hope that when i get to certain parts, my memory will spark but first i have to buy parts and get them, then clean the motor. Once it's clean, I'll begin piecing it back together one baby step at a time. Until then enjoy these pictures which include my disaster of a garage and the trash that came from inside my motor.
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post #33 of 46 Old 08-30-2018, 09:26 PM

 
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Good gawd, that last picture is haunting! I'm glad you got it apart, good luck with the reassemble.

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#1 2008 Honda Trx700xx HMF Performance Exhaust, PCV, Stroked 710cc, 10.5:1 Wiseco Piston, Frt Elka Stage 4's, Fox Podium X rear's, EHS Lid, L8ton 11/16" sway bar, DG 6 Pack Rack, PRM Desert II Bumper & Front Skids.
#2 2008 Trx700xx AMR Reaper, Ehs Big 3, P/P head, Xcalibur Cam, Hard Welded Rockers, +1 In/Ex Valves, +3 Throttle body, 11:1 CP Piston, Elka Stage 3 Legacy Shocks, L8ton 11/16th Sway Bar, PRM Front Skids, Desert II Bumper & Rear Utility Rack.


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post #34 of 46 Old 08-31-2018, 01:25 AM Thread Starter
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Good gawd, that last picture is haunting! I'm glad you got it apart, good luck with the reassemble.

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Yeah it will be tough, but i should be able to get it done. I just can't get past the whole buying a whole $460 cylinder case just for those little cracks and spending 140 on valves because they are just barely bent. Aside from that, I could have it up and running very soon. Haha
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post #35 of 46 Old 08-31-2018, 05:50 AM

 
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Well you will for sure want to replace those valves. The cylinder head is probably okay, you just need to replace the valve guides. Now from what I remember your cylinder it's self needs replaced but, it's alot cheaper than the head!

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#1 2008 Honda Trx700xx HMF Performance Exhaust, PCV, Stroked 710cc, 10.5:1 Wiseco Piston, Frt Elka Stage 4's, Fox Podium X rear's, EHS Lid, L8ton 11/16" sway bar, DG 6 Pack Rack, PRM Desert II Bumper & Front Skids.
#2 2008 Trx700xx AMR Reaper, Ehs Big 3, P/P head, Xcalibur Cam, Hard Welded Rockers, +1 In/Ex Valves, +3 Throttle body, 11:1 CP Piston, Elka Stage 3 Legacy Shocks, L8ton 11/16th Sway Bar, PRM Front Skids, Desert II Bumper & Rear Utility Rack.


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post #36 of 46 Old 09-18-2018, 02:18 PM Thread Starter
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Okay so I apologize for not replying or anything of that sort. Classes started back and i took a minor needed vacation to the beach with some family. But I haven't made any progress, I have attempted to remove the valve guides but have been quite unsuccessful using methods i've found on the web via youtube. I don't feel comfortable enough using brute force because if I screw up and break something, i'm out 450 more dollars. I'm basically to the point of taking it to some sort of shop and seeing if they can remove the guides, put mine in, and give it back to me. But i'm not sure the kind of shop to do that. I've never had to put anything in a shop because i've been able to do it myself but this one has stumped me. If anyone has any ideas of how i may be able to remove them or just reference me to the type of shop i need to be looking for, (machine shop, motor repair, four wheeler shop, honda), I would greatly appreciate any guidance at this point!
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post #37 of 46 Old 09-18-2018, 03:08 PM

 
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IDK what method you tried from youtube. Did you try heating it up in the oven? I'm pretty sure the manual will tell you the proper temp. And while waiting for it to heat up, place new guides in the freezer. As far as shops go, Idk your area, but any machine shop should be able to do this. If you want it port and polished then, I'd look at a shop like EHS racing or similar.

#1 2008 Honda Trx700xx HMF Performance Exhaust, PCV, Stroked 710cc, 10.5:1 Wiseco Piston, Frt Elka Stage 4's, Fox Podium X rear's, EHS Lid, L8ton 11/16" sway bar, DG 6 Pack Rack, PRM Desert II Bumper & Front Skids.
#2 2008 Trx700xx AMR Reaper, Ehs Big 3, P/P head, Xcalibur Cam, Hard Welded Rockers, +1 In/Ex Valves, +3 Throttle body, 11:1 CP Piston, Elka Stage 3 Legacy Shocks, L8ton 11/16th Sway Bar, PRM Front Skids, Desert II Bumper & Rear Utility Rack.


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post #38 of 46 Old 09-18-2018, 05:31 PM Thread Starter
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IDK what method you tried from youtube. Did you try heating it up in the oven? I'm pretty sure the manual will tell you the proper temp. And while waiting for it to heat up, place new guides in the freezer. As far as shops go, Idk your area, but any machine shop should be able to do this. If you want it port and polished then, I'd look at a shop like EHS racing or similar.
First I tried drilling them out and it may have done more damage than good. So then I tried using the old valve and a socket and a rubber mallet and couldn't get them to move. The oven is currently heating up with new guides in the freezer. I'm assuming I try putting the valve with a rubber mallet and see if that will work with the heat. Another thing i noticed was the new valves didn't slide into the new guides. I'm assuming the guides need to be heated with the valves cooled but not sure. I hope that's the case anyways.. Haha I bought all of the parts at the same time on partzilla so they should be right but idk.
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post #39 of 46 Old 09-19-2018, 12:50 AM
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You are correct when you say the valves won't slide into the new guides. You have the correct parts, its just that the valve guides will need to be reamed out to the correct size for your valves.
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post #40 of 46 Old 09-19-2018, 02:20 PM Thread Starter
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You are correct when you say the valves won't slide into the new guides. You have the correct parts, its just that the valve guides will need to be reamed out to the correct size for your valves.
Well that's good to know. I will just end up taking it to a local machine shop and having them do it. I hope that they don't charge me an arm and a leg.. Haha
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