Controller plug chop & usual questions - Club700XX - Honda TRX700XX Forum
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post #1 of 8 Old 06-21-2010, 09:28 AM Thread Starter
 
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Controller plug chop & usual questions

I answer a lot of these questions all the time so i figured i would make a post to help people out and save my self some time im sure i miss a lot of questions on PM's and emails and I apologize to anyone i havent ever gotten back with.


This question is very common i just answered

["from user"]Thanks for getting my big 3 package out quick. It's awesome, so much better throttle response. I was just wondering about checking the spark plug to check my fuel air mix. If I just take it out cold and check it will it give me an accurate look at how its running? Ive read about people chopping? the plug by running it wot in 5th killing it and then checking it. Is that the only way to get an accurate look at how its running, or can i just pull the plug cold? Thanks[/"end user"]

Plug chops are good but i know this package is tuned in very close unless you are at some real high elevation like 5k plus the settings we send will be very very close.

Really you should just play with the controller one mode at a time and see what feels best tune in the green setting then try yellow then red. Look at the controller while riding it it will have the color lights on for what circuit its in so you can tell whats going on just keep it in that circuit and add fuel or remove fuel and see if your but dyno likes it or not if there isnt really any noticeable difference between a half point setting (3.5 vs 4) i would choose the leaner setting saving fuel dont worry it wont make it to lean. Just work your way through all the settings (green,yellow and red)

If you want to do a plug chop you will need to isolate a circuit similar to the but dyno method but do a quick kill on the motor for example plug chopping to test the red mode you will need to get the atv in the red mode keep it there for proabably about 4 seconds then hit the on/off switch without letting out of the gas. This will kill the engine (please dont wreck) and allow you to read exactly what was going on in the red mode at the right time. If you bring the atv back to an idle or get out of the throttle the reading on the plug will not be the circuit you are trying to diagnose it will be the cruise/green circuit. Also plug chops are kind of to get you in the ideal area im sure you are already in that area so i would bet 99.9% that all three modes will look alike and be ideal for a plug chop.

the motor should be under normal operating temp if you check it cold it can lead you astray but will generally be very close. As long as its semi warmed up (idled for about a minute) you will be fine. But you need to isolate the circuit you are diagnosing if you pulled the plug at idle it has a good chance of not reading anything our controller is modifying because we set the parameters to start altering fuel just above idle. It doesnt need to be in 5th gear 3rd or 4th is actually ideal it just needs to be in the right cicuit so you know what to adjust by your findings.

Like i said above im sure this package is tuned in correctly we have tested it on many 700xx's you should be able to fine tune it in to your specific needs within 10 minutes of just playing with the controller itself and your but dyno. And im going to guess you will be right at or very close to the settings it comes with. I definetly dont want to discourage you from a plug check knowledge is great and some people just enjoy doing that kind of thing i know i do i just dont want you to think that its necessary with this setup.

What settings do i put in the controller with a quiet core without a quiet core and how does elevation effect my controller and how much power to i lose with the quiet core if i use it?

This is very common also i kind of rolled 3 into one so we will answer all three

Fuel burn is affected by air flow as well as a whole slew of other factors for the queit core scenario we will use just say flow its easier to understand. The quiet core is used to reduce sound inherintly it effects flow as well. So you will need to reduce the fuel by a little to compensate for the flow adjustment.

EFI, EHS LID, Aftermarket Exhaust Preferable Barker G-3.5 Y-3.5 R-3 GB-3.5 YB-3 RB-3

Same as above with Quiet core G-3 Y-3 R-2.5 GB-3.5 YB-3 RB-3

You will lose about 1-1.5 hp with the quiet core and the decibales with the quiet core are right around 96db as well

Elevation effects fuel because the higher you go the less O2 is in the air so the fuel doesnt burn as well (fire needs O2). This is something we havent tested personally a lot being we are at sea level but i have a lot of feedback from many customers from a lot of scenarios.

Generally anything below 3000' doesnt really effect very much (again please use this as a guideline not science as i havent personally done much testing im not really sure how well the factory efi adapts to the elevation changes) at 3000'-3500' and above it will tend start needing attention. Being that the fuel isnt burning as well we need to reduce the volume so subtracting is where you need to go. You should be looking to pull about 1 full point from G,Y,R to set it at it may take less you will need to use the but dyno or a plug chop if you are concerned

G-2.5 Y-2.5 R-2 GB-3.5 YB-3 RB-3 without QC

The next change shouldnt happen to 4500'-5000' then you may need to remove another 1/2 point to full point on top of the last settings

after that the air gets thinner quicker and every 500'-750' you will need to pay attention

If anybody has taken our setup up a mountian or big elevation change please let us know what you found out and if this is inline with your findings.


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post #2 of 8 Old 06-21-2010, 10:33 AM
 
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OK Eric... What I've found. First off, I have the EHS big 3 package... EHS controller and EHS lid with the Barker exhaust running WITH the quiet core and UNI filter. The numbers you posted for with and without the quiet core are right on the money. However, I was sound tested by the FS with the quiet core and they said I was at 92db. This same ride, we went from about 1600' to 6500' on one ride... up the mountain. We stopped at about 3500' (according to my friend's GPS) and I dropped .5 for Green, Yellow and Red (actually stopped so one of the riders could pee)... seemed a bit lean at first, but after climbing some more, was right on target the rest of the way up. Didn't stop on the way down... just flew down the mountain and beat the other riders back to camp by about 30 minutes. Added back that .5 for the rest of the weekend because we were not really going above about 3000' on our other rides for the weekend.

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post #3 of 8 Old 06-21-2010, 11:06 AM
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Great info! Do you know if you'd need to change the settings posted if you were running EHS lid and stock filter vs EHS lid with side vents and velocity or UNI filter?

2008 red TRX700, CCP stabilizer, PRM Desert II, 13T sprocket, 23" Razr 2's, 11/16" sway bar,Elka Stage 2 Fronts, EHS Big 3, UNI filter, IMS PowerMadd Hand Guards, Wiigstyle rear shock re-spring, Teixeira Tech front upper A-arms,Precision Shock & Vibe clamps, Tusk Chub CR high bend, ODI Rouge grips, HCC seat cover, kenda kutter rear.

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post #4 of 8 Old 06-21-2010, 11:54 AM Thread Starter
 
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Originally Posted by roadkill View Post
OK Eric... What I've found. First off, I have the EHS big 3 package... EHS controller and EHS lid with the Barker exhaust running WITH the quiet core and UNI filter. The numbers you posted for with and without the quiet core are right on the money. However, I was sound tested by the FS with the quiet core and they said I was at 92db. This same ride, we went from about 1600' to 6500' on one ride... up the mountain. We stopped at about 3500' (according to my friend's GPS) and I dropped .5 for Green, Yellow and Red (actually stopped so one of the riders could pee)... seemed a bit lean at first, but after climbing some more, was right on target the rest of the way up. Didn't stop on the way down... just flew down the mountain and beat the other riders back to camp by about 30 minutes. Added back that .5 for the rest of the weekend because we were not really going above about 3000' on our other rides for the weekend.

roadkill
good info thanks glad to hear that it was only 92 db thats quieter than i would think where did they measure at approx (how many ' back)

elevation info is also great to hear im glad you could go to 6500' with minor changes thats really pretty awsome its a big thing for a lot of people and can give many headachs that you wouldnt normally think about.


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post #5 of 8 Old 06-21-2010, 11:58 AM Thread Starter
 
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Great info! Do you know if you'd need to change the settings posted if you were running EHS lid and stock filter vs EHS lid with side vents and velocity or UNI filter?
the settings we used are with normal lid the side vents will take the same settings but you may get a slight benefit with a little more fuel in the Y and R mode the amount of air the engine actually consumes doesnt change that much even though you can get more to the motor it doesnt necessarly need it. Until you change the cam or other attributes is where the extra air will start to shine on a built motor you can see 5hp+ gains from the side vents or "otherways of getting more air" at that time you need more fuel but not really in big 3 trim.


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post #6 of 8 Old 06-21-2010, 12:13 PM
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Thanks I'll be buying the Barkers big 3 in about a month when i have enough money.

2008 red TRX700, CCP stabilizer, PRM Desert II, 13T sprocket, 23" Razr 2's, 11/16" sway bar,Elka Stage 2 Fronts, EHS Big 3, UNI filter, IMS PowerMadd Hand Guards, Wiigstyle rear shock re-spring, Teixeira Tech front upper A-arms,Precision Shock & Vibe clamps, Tusk Chub CR high bend, ODI Rouge grips, HCC seat cover, kenda kutter rear.

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post #7 of 8 Old 06-21-2010, 01:45 PM
 
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good info thanks glad to hear that it was only 92 db thats quieter than i would think where did they measure at approx (how many ' back)
Sorry Eric, that's one thing I can't answer. When my friend was getting tested, he was facing me and I didn't get a chance to see how far back the mic was and at what angle... I was also busy getting my ass chewed for speeding... Then, it was my turn... I saw that the mic was on a tripod at about 2' off the ground, but still didn't see how far back and at what angle while I was being tested... Had me sitting on my quad facing forward.

One note of caution... Just because the FS tested me at 92db does NOT mean that another agency will test out the same. Another agency (not FS) may use a different procedure, different distance back or a different angle and can produce a different result.

I was quite surprised that the ranger dude said I was only at 92db. Oh yeah, my friend didn't pass. He tested out at 102 - 103db (Polaris)

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post #8 of 8 Old 07-09-2010, 03:33 PM
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Just want to send props to Eric and EHS. These settings are perfect. I have an FMF Factory 4.1 with a quiet core. I run the controller with EHS lid, UNI, Powerbomb Header without Quiet Core at the default settings and it is perfect. Virtually no stalling at all. Great products!! With the quiet core I adjust as listed. Eric provides support. I had an FMF controller and they could not give me correct setting to use with the Powerbomb and 4.1. Since I went with EHS problems are solved.

Renthal 13 tooth sprocket
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EHS EFI controller/airbox lid/UNI air filter
Alba Pro Elite nerf bars
Renthal Raptor660 handlebars/ODI Rogue grips/Precision Racing antivibe clamps
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Maxxis Razr 23x7x10 front tires, Kenda Kutter 22x9x11 rear tires
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