"HELP" Right Rear Axle Removal! - Club700XX - Honda TRX700XX Forum
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post #1 of 206 Old 03-26-2013, 05:47 PM Thread Starter

 
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"HELP" Right Rear Axle Removal!

in the manual 17-4 says remove right rear knuckle, then insert flat blade, between left drive shaft inboard joint and rear brake disc. So whats the trick, do I have to remove the left side sprocket first? I dont see how the brake disc would come off before axle is removed. Manual picture has me confused. Here's a picture of where I think I should place screwdriver. Let me know if this is area and I just need to pry some, I' don't want to mess it up worse than it is. And the part to the right of screwdriver tip, is where I seen the play when rocking tires. I never noticed anything wrong while driving, just seen this when getting ready to clean chain and do brakes.


#1 2008 Honda Trx700xx HMF Performance Exhaust, PCV, Stroked 710cc, 10.5:1 Wiseco Piston, Frt Elka Stage 4's, Fox Podium X rear's, EHS Lid, L8ton 11/16" sway bar, DG 6 Pack Rack, PRM Desert II Bumper & Front Skids.
#2 2008 Trx700xx AMR Reaper, Ehs Big 3, P/P head, Xcalibur Cam, Hard Welded Rockers, +1 In/Ex Valves, +3 Throttle body, 11:1 CP Piston, Elka Stage 3 Legacy Shocks, L8ton 11/16th Sway Bar, PRM Front Skids, Desert II Bumper & Rear Utility Rack.


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post #2 of 206 Old 03-26-2013, 06:27 PM
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puke

i can see the rust in there if your snap ring come off and gouged the splines and aluminum rear housing youll have to take the other side out as well the mechanic that did mine liked to never got it out he was using a brass hammer and punch to hit it with it looks like the same thing that happened to mine,might as well do new rear sprocket,chain, and front sprocket,and rear brake pads while you are doing all that! there is bearings that need to be replaced too in the housing if your housing isnt ruined


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post #3 of 206 Old 03-26-2013, 07:21 PM Thread Starter

 
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Well I've been blasting it with pb blaster, on both sides. So that's part of the reason your seeing the rust, it was not visible before the spray. So is that the correct area to pry/beat on? If so from here it looks like you could install a regular grease fitting. Have you been taking yours apart and greasing regularly since repair? If so how hard is it to disassemble, when there's some grease left in there? Left side is almost ready to remove sprocket. Good idea and I was thinking about new chain & sprockets. The sprockets look fine, chain I'm sure could be replaced and they say to do both at once, so I'm sure I will. And the rear brakes are on, maybe hard to see but there in picture. Original's still had about 33% life.

#1 2008 Honda Trx700xx HMF Performance Exhaust, PCV, Stroked 710cc, 10.5:1 Wiseco Piston, Frt Elka Stage 4's, Fox Podium X rear's, EHS Lid, L8ton 11/16" sway bar, DG 6 Pack Rack, PRM Desert II Bumper & Front Skids.
#2 2008 Trx700xx AMR Reaper, Ehs Big 3, P/P head, Xcalibur Cam, Hard Welded Rockers, +1 In/Ex Valves, +3 Throttle body, 11:1 CP Piston, Elka Stage 3 Legacy Shocks, L8ton 11/16th Sway Bar, PRM Front Skids, Desert II Bumper & Rear Utility Rack.


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post #4 of 206 Old 03-26-2013, 07:46 PM
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yeah its easier to take apart if nothing is froze up yeah thats about the right spot. its about time for mine to be done again too,water and the elements are hard on that rear i cant believe they ,honda didnt put some kinda way to lubricate it better , water seems like it can get in there pretty easy and it dont take long between greasings for the inside to get dry and start to rust ,that rear chunck really gets hot too when riding,apparently honda doesnt believe in grease fittings,other makes have them.


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post #5 of 206 Old 03-26-2013, 08:14 PM
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Wow deja vu dammit! you are having the same problem i was having even started a post to find out how to get the damn thing off. You are prying on the exact spot you need to. One question does it move in and out about a 1/8 inch but just wont come off?. Trust me when i say that if the snap ring that goes on the end of that CV end is broken you will have a hard time getting it off. I removed the whole rear end and before i scare you its not that hard. Remove both tires, chain, caliper and the rear hubs. Then there are four bolts two in the rear and two in the front by the pegs. Then the whole rear end comes right off and the you are able to spray WD-40 into the splines and get something in there to pry. I used a tie rod remover for a car. Came right off then I cried at all the damage there was.
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post #6 of 206 Old 03-26-2013, 08:29 PM
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Something that I did after i had to replace those both was to put a bead of silicone between the brake disk and the axle. I am assuming that if you grease it then do that it will help keep dirt, mud and water out and grease in.

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post #7 of 206 Old 03-26-2013, 09:03 PM Thread Starter

 
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This is depressing, seams like a poor design by Honda. And maybe another reason they discontinued this model. I could still ride mine till it really breaks, but this kind of failure with in a couple hundred hours at best, is BS. tbird88 i'm thinking Honda believes grease fittings or lack of will double there money. IDK I'm really thinking about fixing mine and offing it, sad cause I really like the quad. My Uncles had his rZr for years and only repair was when he took out his radiator. Other than that, just maintenance.

NoWingNoPrayer, I'm about to drop the rear frame tomorrow and take to my friends house. Did you remove heel guards to access bolts by pegs? It looks like it would help, so you could use a impact wrench. But I think if you just swing it down from rear, I can remove rear axles, by removing the main carrier bolt or chain adjuster, and one more in front. My friend is a machinist, so he should get apart and see if grease fittings can be added. I've been trying the tie-rod tool and no luck yet. I know I could open up the cv and use a puller, but I will take to friends. Did you take any pictures of the damaged parts?

Craven7786, what type of silicone did you use like a hi temp I would guess, and I'm wondering how long ago you did this. And when are you going to re grease or do you think its good now.?

#1 2008 Honda Trx700xx HMF Performance Exhaust, PCV, Stroked 710cc, 10.5:1 Wiseco Piston, Frt Elka Stage 4's, Fox Podium X rear's, EHS Lid, L8ton 11/16" sway bar, DG 6 Pack Rack, PRM Desert II Bumper & Front Skids.
#2 2008 Trx700xx AMR Reaper, Ehs Big 3, P/P head, Xcalibur Cam, Hard Welded Rockers, +1 In/Ex Valves, +3 Throttle body, 11:1 CP Piston, Elka Stage 3 Legacy Shocks, L8ton 11/16th Sway Bar, PRM Front Skids, Desert II Bumper & Rear Utility Rack.


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post #8 of 206 Old 03-26-2013, 09:17 PM
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I am planning on taking it apart to check early summer when I have more time. I hope it will still be greased up good. I am not sure what it was but I would say that would be fine. So far it is holding up fine though.
I need to get a picture of what happens to the splines. They became rounded and loose but the reason it becomes so hard to remove is buildup under the snap ring so it cant compress to come out.

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post #9 of 206 Old 03-26-2013, 09:19 PM
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i grease mine with belray saltwater proof grease its better than honda grease and works better


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post #10 of 206 Old 03-26-2013, 09:29 PM Thread Starter

 
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Well thanks guys for the help! I'm hoping once I get it apart, I don't have to replace to much. I don't want to order parts till I see what I need. On the brighter side I all ready did get one good ride in this year. Sucks because I had 2 April trips planed already, and right now that's not looking good.

#1 2008 Honda Trx700xx HMF Performance Exhaust, PCV, Stroked 710cc, 10.5:1 Wiseco Piston, Frt Elka Stage 4's, Fox Podium X rear's, EHS Lid, L8ton 11/16" sway bar, DG 6 Pack Rack, PRM Desert II Bumper & Front Skids.
#2 2008 Trx700xx AMR Reaper, Ehs Big 3, P/P head, Xcalibur Cam, Hard Welded Rockers, +1 In/Ex Valves, +3 Throttle body, 11:1 CP Piston, Elka Stage 3 Legacy Shocks, L8ton 11/16th Sway Bar, PRM Front Skids, Desert II Bumper & Rear Utility Rack.


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