Aftermarket ITP Wheel centering issue - Club700XX - Honda TRX700XX Forum
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post #1 of 17 Old 01-09-2019, 08:04 AM Thread Starter
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Aftermarket ITP Wheel centering issue

I purchased 10" ITP wheels to open up my tire options for the 700xx.

These wheels look great and pretty much match with my stock front wheels.

My new tires all around look great, but i have one lingering issue with the new back wheels mounting to the studs.

The holes in the rim for each stud are slightly larger than the stud itself, obviously. But when i get the wheel slid on, before putting the lug bolts on (flipped for the flat side since the new wheels are not tapered at the lug holes like stock), I can rock the wheels back and forth on the studs ever so slightly.

Without the lug taper, there is no real way to center the wheel on the lug perfectly. No matter how hard i try, i still get a slight wobble in my wheel every time i try to re-center it. I know that it is not the tire or the mounting of the tire on the rim. I've already tested that at a tire shop. I argued with them and they took me out in the shop and showed me the tire spinning on a mount. it looked perfect there.

So what are you guys doing to center the wheel? I have gotten it close on one side, but not perfect, and the other side i got lucky and seem to have it perfectly centered.
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post #2 of 17 Old 01-09-2019, 09:16 AM
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So what you are seeing is a little bit of slop where the wheel meets the hub and lug bolts? I had the 10" ITP wheels and I do not remember that being an issue. The problem I had was bending the wheels upon impacts with rocks in WV.

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post #3 of 17 Old 01-09-2019, 09:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kyleking777 View Post
I purchased 10" ITP wheels to open up my tire options for the 700xx.

These wheels look great and pretty much match with my stock front wheels.

My new tires all around look great, but i have one lingering issue with the new back wheels mounting to the studs.

The holes in the rim for each stud are slightly larger than the stud itself, obviously. But when i get the wheel slid on, before putting the lug bolts on (flipped for the flat side since the new wheels are not tapered at the lug holes like stock), I can rock the wheels back and forth on the studs ever so slightly.

Without the lug taper, there is no real way to center the wheel on the lug perfectly. No matter how hard i try, i still get a slight wobble in my wheel every time i try to re-center it. I know that it is not the tire or the mounting of the tire on the rim. I've already tested that at a tire shop. I argued with them and they took me out in the shop and showed me the tire spinning on a mount. it looked perfect there.

So what are you guys doing to center the wheel? I have gotten it close on one side, but not perfect, and the other side i got lucky and seem to have it perfectly centered.


Hello,
are you putting the inner side of the wheels,
out, and vice versa?
Anyway, are wheels,
specific, with distance 144, right?
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post #4 of 17 Old 01-09-2019, 09:58 AM Thread Starter
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Hello,
are you putting the inner side of the wheels,
out, and vice versa?
Anyway, are wheels,
specific, with distance 144, right?
If you mean, am i putting my wheels on inside out? like backwards? no i am not. im putting them on as they should be! yes the wheels are the correct pattern and spacing.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Footy View Post
So what you are seeing is a little bit of slop where the wheel meets the hub and lug bolts? I had the 10" ITP wheels and I do not remember that being an issue. The problem I had was bending the wheels upon impacts with rocks in WV.
Correct, there is the slightest bit of slop in there, its very little, but enough that when i look down at my wheel when going down the road, my tread pattern does not spin around and around in a perfect line. I can see a slight wobble. I do not feel it, but can see it.

I just dont undertstand how to center them perfectly on the 4 lugs, as fast as these wheels spin, you would think this would be important!!!
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post #5 of 17 Old 01-09-2019, 11:06 AM
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[QUOTE=kyleking777;243164]If you mean, am i putting my wheels on inside out? like backwards? no i am not. im putting them on as they should be! yes the wheels are the correct pattern and spacing.

Yes I meant that,
believing that the wheels had lug taper on one side.
So paradoxically,
you should enlarge the holes,
to allow nut, wheel
to enter, with the cone
and then center it,
but this is just theory,
surely you will receive more answers from many experts here.
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post #6 of 17 Old 01-09-2019, 12:47 PM Thread Starter
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[quote=/CUDA;243166]
Quote:
Originally Posted by kyleking777 View Post
If you mean, am i putting my wheels on inside out? like backwards? no i am not. im putting them on as they should be! yes the wheels are the correct pattern and spacing.

Yes I meant that,
believing that the wheels had lug taper on one side.
So paradoxically,
you should enlarge the holes,
to allow nut, wheel
to enter, with the cone
and then center it,
but this is just theory,
surely you will receive more answers from many experts here.
Yes, I thought About doing this. But im concerned of messing them up. I mean, if hit a hole and ever slightly drill off center, i feel that could cause the wheel to become even worse.
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post #7 of 17 Old 01-09-2019, 02:35 PM

 
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The DWT wheels fit so tight, there hard to install. I think you are over thinking this. And there should be no way the wheel or tire moves once the lugs are torqued, unless you have bad wheel bearings. Do yourself a favor, and buy flange bolts for the lug nuts instead of reversing stock ones, or atleast add washers.

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post #8 of 17 Old 01-09-2019, 02:40 PM

 
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[quote=kyleking777;243168]
Quote:
Originally Posted by /CUDA View Post



Yes, I thought About doing this. But im concerned of messing them up. I mean, if hit a hole and ever slightly drill off center, i feel that could cause the wheel to become even worse.
If you were to drill them, use a stepper bit. I had to open my one set of DWT's, after using the factory lug nuts reversed.

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#2 2008 Trx700xx AMR Reaper, Ehs Big 3, P/P head, Xcalibur Cam, Hard Welded Rockers, +1 In/Ex Valves, +3 Throttle body, 11:1 CP Piston, Elka Stage 3 Legacy Shocks, L8ton 11/16th Sway Bar, PRM Front Skids, Desert II Bumper & Rear Utility Rack.


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post #9 of 17 Old 01-10-2019, 08:49 AM Thread Starter
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[quote=M_Quick;243174]
Quote:
Originally Posted by kyleking777 View Post
If you were to drill them, use a stepper bit. I had to open my one set of DWT's, after using the factory lug nuts reversed.

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I think this is what im going to do, So that i can use my stock lug nuts and center it on the lug bolts.

I think if i do 2 on each wheel it should be enough to center them. diagonally from each other on each wheel.
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post #10 of 17 Old 01-10-2019, 12:38 PM

 
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If you're considering drilling these out enough to use two of the factory lug nuts with the tapered end towards the Hub, you may want to reconsider that. Your wheels do not have the reinforcement rings, like the OEM ones did.

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#2 2008 Trx700xx AMR Reaper, Ehs Big 3, P/P head, Xcalibur Cam, Hard Welded Rockers, +1 In/Ex Valves, +3 Throttle body, 11:1 CP Piston, Elka Stage 3 Legacy Shocks, L8ton 11/16th Sway Bar, PRM Front Skids, Desert II Bumper & Rear Utility Rack.


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