teixeira tech cxc install and setup, need some help! - Club700XX - Honda TRX700XX Forum
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post #1 of 24 Old 02-19-2013, 12:06 AM Thread Starter
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headscratch teixeira tech cxc install and setup, need some help!

I got my cxc a arms Friday and I started the installation process today.
First off I like them a lot, strong good looking durable. Only thing I wish it had was the stock brake line holders. I don't care for zip ties, but for now they'll do.
Removal of the original arm was easy enough got to beat the old ball joint out. Installing the new ball joint was a little tricky ( my first time doing one) finally got enough seated into the hub it stayed and I could tighten the lock nut.

But After I got both arms done and set to the 3rd notch from the front I tried to get the negative 1 camber? Correct me if i'm wrong.. And I could only get to plus 1. I adjusted from one end of the threaded bolt to the other. It was about the same everywhere. This was with the quads weight on the ground and no rider. every time I made an adjustment I lifted the front end and dropped it (a couple inches) and measured there.I have a brand new degree dial for this. Any ideas or something i'm missing guys?

2006 ds650x-sold.
2008 trx 700xx black and grey.
13t front sprocket, barkers full exhaust, uni filter, ehs lid w/vents, pcv. 44.02hp 2/12/13
Kenda Kutters & sti tech 4 tires, Honda racing Nerfs, pro taper grips, l8ton 11/16 sway bar, ccp, teixeira tech cxc, ds450 swap, precision s&v, duro mohawks and 10pdl haulers on itp ss112 machined on 2in solid billit adaptors.
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hids 8k, tt vapor, blue underglow, billet gas cap, pro armor front bumper, ricochet full skids, powermadd hand guards.

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post #2 of 24 Old 02-19-2013, 03:37 PM
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What was the measurment of the old arms pivot to knuckle? Use that to start and adjust from there. try putting a small straight board on the outer rim bead for a staight surface.
just spit balling

2008 TRX700xx
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post #3 of 24 Old 02-19-2013, 04:04 PM
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The only way to not get a negative camber is if the a-arm is too long. Are you adjusting the caster with the notches and camber with the ball joint? Take a pic. The top ball joint should be further forward than the bottom and the top of the tire should be further in than the bottom. I set my camber with someone of comparable weight on the bike.


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post #4 of 24 Old 02-19-2013, 04:38 PM
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Oh sure talk to someone who knows about the subject. what kind of forum is this anyway?????

2008 TRX700xx
13Tfront
Kenda Bear Claws 23x8x11
Custom 2" receiver
2007 Honda Forman TRX500es (wifes)
54" Moose plow (for the horse poo)
rear seat/ strorage box
Ground Hog Disk harrow kit
2x 2009 Kawasaki KFX 90 (kids)
PEI fog lights
"If your face isn't dirty, you haven't been riding." Daughter age 10 (riding style, 2 speeds, full out and off)
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Its amazing how far a KFX 90 will fly if you go fast. 15' is her current record.
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post #5 of 24 Old 02-19-2013, 04:48 PM
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if it was me i would let a tech install them , hell i can swap them out but id want somebody that knows whats up adjust for what situation you ride the most!!it cant be that much at the dealershp to adjust it right!


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post #6 of 24 Old 02-19-2013, 07:52 PM Thread Starter
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grin

I thought I read that with the rider on the bike you should have-2 camber? Is this the measurement i'm trying to find, running a straight piece of metal across the rim with the gauge? And that us a good starting point thanks snoshoe ok be home real quick to finish this up tonight
And the arm is just the stock replacement cxc. I'll post a pic soon as i'm home.

2006 ds650x-sold.
2008 trx 700xx black and grey.
13t front sprocket, barkers full exhaust, uni filter, ehs lid w/vents, pcv. 44.02hp 2/12/13
Kenda Kutters & sti tech 4 tires, Honda racing Nerfs, pro taper grips, l8ton 11/16 sway bar, ccp, teixeira tech cxc, ds450 swap, precision s&v, duro mohawks and 10pdl haulers on itp ss112 machined on 2in solid billit adaptors.
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hids 8k, tt vapor, blue underglow, billet gas cap, pro armor front bumper, ricochet full skids, powermadd hand guards.
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post #7 of 24 Old 02-19-2013, 08:48 PM Thread Starter
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Here is a pic, this is the passenger side.. I have the 4th thread just out of the nylon. And I think i'm reading my gauge wrong haha there is no negative on it I just assumed what I was seeing was positive so on the gauge right now it is at 3 degrees to the right of zero(away from the bike). My next question is do I need to adjust both a arms at the same time? Does one affect the other?
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File Type: jpg 2013-02-19 19.45.04.jpg (76.0 KB, 40 views)

2006 ds650x-sold.
2008 trx 700xx black and grey.
13t front sprocket, barkers full exhaust, uni filter, ehs lid w/vents, pcv. 44.02hp 2/12/13
Kenda Kutters & sti tech 4 tires, Honda racing Nerfs, pro taper grips, l8ton 11/16 sway bar, ccp, teixeira tech cxc, ds450 swap, precision s&v, duro mohawks and 10pdl haulers on itp ss112 machined on 2in solid billit adaptors.
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hids 8k, tt vapor, blue underglow, billet gas cap, pro armor front bumper, ricochet full skids, powermadd hand guards.

Last edited by 2008700xxrider; 02-19-2013 at 09:10 PM.
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post #8 of 24 Old 02-19-2013, 09:19 PM
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No, but count threads on the second one so you start out pretty close to where you need to be. Also, you can flip your angle gauge to read both ways of vertical if you need to.


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post #9 of 24 Old 02-19-2013, 11:03 PM Thread Starter
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So I have both arms installed, in the 3rd slot from the front. The locking nuts are threaded as close to the same as I can tell. i'm measuring the same way on each side, with the gauge facing the front of the quad.
On the passenger side I have between 1-2 degrees to the left of zero. (needle going away from the rim.)
On the driver side I have a solid 1 degree to the right of zero. (needle going away from the rim)
Sorry I couldn't get a picture and hold the gauge still haha 1 man show here tonight.
i'm still not getting much degree difference any where the locking nuts are set.

One concern I have is I wrecked the quad one time and hit main skid plate into the lower a arm passenger side. It didn't even dent the arm just enough to scrape the paint off. Maybe I tweeked a bracket a hair ?
Could this cause the difference in degrees on the passenger side? And more tire wearing? Its even across the tread, so I was chalking it up to my not checking pressure as it was lower than the driver side..

2006 ds650x-sold.
2008 trx 700xx black and grey.
13t front sprocket, barkers full exhaust, uni filter, ehs lid w/vents, pcv. 44.02hp 2/12/13
Kenda Kutters & sti tech 4 tires, Honda racing Nerfs, pro taper grips, l8ton 11/16 sway bar, ccp, teixeira tech cxc, ds450 swap, precision s&v, duro mohawks and 10pdl haulers on itp ss112 machined on 2in solid billit adaptors.
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hids 8k, tt vapor, blue underglow, billet gas cap, pro armor front bumper, ricochet full skids, powermadd hand guards.
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post #10 of 24 Old 02-20-2013, 05:08 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2008700xxrider View Post
I got my cxc a arms Friday and I started the installation process today.
First off I like them a lot, strong good looking durable. Only thing I wish it had was the stock brake line holders. I don't care for zip ties, but for now they'll do.
Removal of the original arm was easy enough got to beat the old ball joint out. Installing the new ball joint was a little tricky ( my first time doing one) finally got enough seated into the hub it stayed and I could tighten the lock nut.

But After I got both arms done and set to the 3rd notch from the front I tried to get the negative 1 camber? Correct me if i'm wrong.. And I could only get to plus 1. I adjusted from one end of the threaded bolt to the other. It was about the same everywhere. This was with the quads weight on the ground and no rider. every time I made an adjustment I lifted the front end and dropped it (a couple inches) and measured there.I have a brand new degree dial for this. Any ideas or something i'm missing guys?
You didn't do anything wrong , you set off on the wrong foot.


Don't lift the front up but bounce the front end by applying/releasing weight to the front bumper. Only use the degree dial , you start with a tape measure or counting threads you'll never get it to work. That's why I do the toe measurement from a straight edge on the back wheels.
I'm also a one man band and do all my measuring/settings with no rider.
Hope this helps and I apologise to a few members that have sent pm's. Been a tad busy but will be in touch.

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