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  Topic Review (Newest First)
02-15-2016 03:05 PM
M_Quick
Quote:
Originally Posted by blakjak619 View Post
I have this issue with regular DWT's and OMF's too. After having to bang a set off with a hammer I made sure to add a nice rubber mallet to all pit boxes.
Why do you think dwt has this zero tolerance on the wheels? I hate to have to take a drill to brand new $140 wheels. But if the openings are barely large enough and I have to wiggle to work them on, they will get drilled out. Have you mentioned this issue to Bones? I know they don't make the DWT'S but he may have some insight on the situation.
04-28-2015 07:55 PM
M_Quick
Quote:
Originally Posted by M_Quick View Post
I'll let you try this, let me know how it works. That is if you put your 10's back on. I still plan on the drill bit method.

Drilled mine out today like 1/16". I didn't realize how think the .190 wheels were. The stepper bit worked, but I had to drill 1/2 way and then flip over and drill other side. Wheels go on easy now, I hope there easy to remove as well. I also used stainless washer's and purchased the 10 mm x 1.25 flange bolts. The flange didn't seam large enough to cover the damage from the reversed oem lug nuts, which is why I used washer's too.
12-23-2014 03:54 PM
xxcharger I bought the ITP T-9 GP (Grand Prix) wheels for the front. They have steel reinforcements like stock and they look pretty sturdy too.
10-22-2014 05:54 PM
Baxter The washers help out with the stock nuts and stop the flaring over. Got a set of DWT .125, 8x6 with Kutters 18x8x8 . Built for an Apache 100 quad. So much fun and way too grip ! Still around 50" though.
10-21-2014 04:38 PM
D Bergstrom Might be able to find them at a local hardware store. Nothing special about them, just a 10mm x 1.25 pitch flange nut.

Doug
10-21-2014 03:14 PM
M_Quick
Quote:
Originally Posted by D Bergstrom View Post
The link you posted are the correct size and pitch, those will work.

Doug
Thx, I was just going to take a hub to local place. But knowing the size will help for sure. The cheapest I see on eBay was $13.95 for 8, and Rocky Mountain would be $3.20 plus $7.00 shipping. I hope the Stealership has them at least for a buck each or less.
10-21-2014 10:07 AM
D Bergstrom The link you posted are the correct size and pitch, those will work.

Doug
10-20-2014 10:09 PM
M_Quick Really!!! I just looked at RM not sure if there the right size and pitch, but $0.40 each! Gessh I should of sprung for 8 of these when I got the wheels. But remember reading on here awhile ago, all you had to do is flip the lug nuts...

https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p...e%20lug%20nuts
10-20-2014 09:50 PM
M_Quick I'm sure I over torque mine by the recommended 47 ft lbs. But the 1st time I put them on, there was a lot less tolerance when sliding over the studs than the oem 11" wheels. And also the 1st time I road on them set at 55 lbs I had a couple lug nuts come loose after a few hours of riding. I don't see how a flat lug nut compressed would smash the rim, but maybe that is the deal.

Sounds like I need some new lug nuts, before I re-install thx Doug...
10-20-2014 09:28 PM
D Bergstrom What are you guys torquing your lugs to? I always use a torque wrench set to 47 ft-lbs, can't really say I have ever had a hard time removing any of my wheels from any of my quads. (95% of the sport quads use the same setup and I bet I own around 50 wheels.) If you over torque the lug nuts, they can squeeze the aluminum into the lugs themselves, hence the reason they are difficult to remove. I have noticed that some of my DWT wheels have little burrs around the holes. I always take a round file them to clean them up before use. I also have never used the stock lugs on any of my quads, I always replace them with flange nuts, figure the flange will distribute the force better.

I would be very cautious in drilling out the wheels. They should be a snug fit as that is what centers the wheel. Oversize holes could allow the wheel to shift around, could oblong the holes making thing worse.

Doug
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